Snapshot: Omnivore

That ominous looking, zig-zag for a sign is the logo for the Omnivore World Tour, a 'little' known festival around these parts. Coinciding with the Labour Day long weekend and the start of Good Food Month, Omnivore is all about celebrating the up-and-coming culinary talents of the world. With a series of masterclasses and pop-up dinners over the weekend; the air abuzz with a youthful energy and excitement. This year (the second year the Omnivore tour has come to Sydney), the festival descended on the Australian National Maritime Museum for some harbour-side capers, a nifty concept unto itself.

O-MNIV-ore, or something...

Tonight's feast was hosted by chefs Pierre Sang Boyer, of Pierre Sang in Oberkampf (Paris) as well as our own Hamish Ingham of Bar H (Sydney) (another restaurant I still haven't visited yet!!!). Both like to work with Asian flavours in a rather modern way, delivering refined and innovative dishes. Pierre Sang launched himself into the spotlight after being named finalist in Top Chef 2011, France. Now, in 2014 he has two restaurants in Paris which are consistently booked out. Yet again, the great table tussle continues #firstworldproblems. Luckily this time, Pierre Sang has come to us!

You've got to love a long table and male models for waiters (pretty much)...can't complain!

Hamish Ingham, a local Sydney chef carved a name for himself at Bar H Dining, a dinky corner eatery in Surry Hills serving Chinese inspired food. With various appearances on Masterchef and a Good Food Guide chef's hat in the arsenal, Ingham is a worthy contender in this pop-up duo. This is the Eurasian dream team on paper but shall we move on to the food? The dinner consisted of five courses with matched wines, with a focus on locally sourced Australian ingredients (but of course)!

Sashimi of snapper with wasabi snow, okahjiki and shiso. My favourite dish of the night, already. We peaked pretty early here, but Ingham's combination of everything in the dish was an instant winner. A few strands of samphire, the hint of wasabi powder and the freshness of the fish - all gone in an instant!

Spinach and oyster, pomegranate. A rather curious dish for me by Boyer, a prawn cracker (not quite crispy enough) sits perched amongst diced fresh oyster and a bundle of vegetables (par cooked, slightly too textural haha) without much of a sauce. The oyster and the roe could just be there alone and I'd be happy!

Tuna andouille, bearnaise sauce. A rich sauce for a very rich and oily fish. This dish is a staple of Boyer's, a signature on the menu of In Oberkampf. The tuna itself was incredible, the grilled onion and radish just accessory

Rangers Valley wagyu rump cap shiro miso, sichuan beetroot. Ingham experiments a little by using a lesser known cut of wagyu which has been slow cooked. Perhaps more chewy than most are used to, I found the meat still be nice and tender and the sauce had a lovely depth of flavour. The spiced beets were a nice accompaniment

In the spotlight, the frantic assembly line for the dessert course. All done outside on a makeshift 'pass'

Rose geranium pavlova, yuzu curd, muntrie jam and dried strawberries. That oozy curd, I could just bottle that up and bundle it home. The meringue unfortunately was rather chewy at the bottom, possibly an issue with pre-cooking them offsite. For balance and lightness, I thought maybe a bit more whipped cream might have helped. The coriander added a nice, tangy touch to what would otherwise be a very sweet dessert

A quick Q&A with Luc Dubanchet (creator of Omnivore) and the crew, many of whom had flown in from France especially for the Omnivore program. Read: junket!

With Omnivore gracing our shores once again, here's hoping they make the trip Down Under for many years to come. It seems the Omnivore movement has been gaining some momentum and this dinner was a testament to that fact. You can catch some more glimpses from the night with the official coverage over here. At its heart, Omnivore helps to connect young chefs from around the world, promoting a strong spirit of collaboration. The best thing about these events are that they are a golden opportunity for some of the young guns to establish themselves. Even one of Boyer's youngest sous chefs (at just 19) was mucking in. This is what Omnivore is all about...the future is here!

Adios to another great evening!

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

Stanley Street Merchants

Stanley Street Merchants is here for a good time, not a long time. A crowd-funded project by IconPark, SSM presents a new frontier on the Sydney dining scene. Fronted by chefs Matt Stone and Duncan McCance, the team is joined by bar manager Bobby Carey and general manager 'gin maestro' Jez Spencer. Together they may look like a renegade bikie gang but they're ready to serve you up decent tucker with some old fashioned Aussie hospitality. Don't mind if I do...

The rather fantastical spread of entrées that covered the table. We did still have four courses to go, mind you. I think we did good

IconPark is about concept above all else and their first instalment looks to be a brilliant success. But a viable business? Who knows, but there are definitely bums on seats. As I sit writing this, tonight is totally booked out, and it's only Monday. That's a pretty good sign, right? The celebrity card of Matt Stone was handy to get the idea over the line. He has gone from strength to strength cooking at Greenhouse in Perth and more recently Silo by Joost in Melbourne (my spiritual home, haha). 

The very thrown together appearance of the downstairs bar/eatery perfect for drinks or brunch. Upstairs is more formal dining for the 'oldies' like myself...! Credit: Alana Dimou, Broadsheet Sydney

We were quietly ushered past the bar hipsters and whisked upstairs where there is more of a proper restaurant going. Partitioned by wooden doors, it felt like we were eating in a train carriage (cute!). Rather cosy, and perfect for conversation over a drink to a soundtrack of Mumford and Sons. Can't complain. You can track the SSM team's progress as they worked busily to get the restaurant ready to open earlier this year. It's all happened very quickly and lends a rather unpolished feel to the place which has so much more soul. Tell me if I'm sounding ridiculous...?

Part 1 of snacks: charcuterie board and baba ghanoush and house made foccacia. Mild salami, bresaola and wild boar salami (pretty out there) served with aged carrot and miso toast. I could not make out the miso flavour at all unfortunately. The eggplant dip had a lovely chariness to it and the bread was a winner (can't beat freshly baked)

We decided to try the Chef's menu which is a five course affair - that part was non-negotiable. SSM's food philosophy is all about local (heard that before?!), honey sourced from Neutral Bay and native Australian ingredients featuring prominently. The sad part is that we know next to nothing about the beautiful produce growing in our own backyard. Kylie Kwong and Matt Stone are at the forefront of this movement - deep fried insects and all.

Part 2 of snacks: fried spice cauliflower (left) and fermented vegetables (right). These were stand out dishes for me - the cauliflower was cooked beautifully and had a lovely toastiness with all the heavy spice coating. The fermented veggies were punchy and tart and balanced out with some native sea succulent. Yum!

Fermented brown rice, pine mushrooms, parsley. Achieving a risotto like texture, the brown rice is soaked in whey overnight. The results combined with king oyster and pine mushrooms and the lurid green of a parsley oil make it a killer dish

Twice cooked corn fed chicken, sweetcorn puree and jerusalem artichoke crisp. This was another favourite - the chicken was so tender with crispy skin. The puree was so sweet it could have been a dessert course on its own. Pretty crazy stuff

A new addition to the menu for the night: grilled skirt steak with oregano and shaved Manjimup truffle. The meat was cooked beautifully but the truffle was overpowered by the charriness of the beef - shame!

Kangaroo, Australian native fruits, herbs & spices. The kangaroo was cooked well and complemented with the native fruits (including whoppingly sour quandongs) and astringent Warrigal greens. Can't get much more patriotic than this!

A collective sigh when this dish hit the table: poached quince, macadamia, wattleseed, and buttermilk ice cream. I definitely have a thing for quince and funnily enough, I've never cooked with it before (must change this). Ticking the dessert boxes of presentation, texture and flavour (A+). This dessert was everything I could ask for and more...

"No ants, I'm vegan" - I overheard these exact words from an adjacent table, no kidding. I. am. amazed. And not in a good way. This lovely morsel is served with its jar bottom screwed in containing cherrywood smoke. The dish itself is a charcoal toasted marshmallow, raspberries, flowers and ants. There was a bit of debate as to whether they were actual ants as garnish here (me being the cynic) but I can confirm that yes, they're real - in all their crispy glory

White chocolate and yoghurt mousse with kale/cucumber granita and rosella (left). This was plated beautifully, the white chocolate noodles added a nice height to the dish. The yoghurt mousse I could take or leave. The granita was delish, and melting fast. Aussie cheese board with dried figs and house-made carbs (oh yeaah)(right). The cheeses were a cheddar, blue and goats curd; certainly not to everyone's tastes but suits me just fine (!)

Stanley Street Merchants achieves what most Sydney restaurant/cafés could only dream of doing. Utilising some of the incredible produce Australia has to offer, I'm positive they would have no problem in another location once this 3 month stint is over. Bold in flavours and execution, SSM makes for a rollicking fun night out. They're also open for brekkie and lunch in case you're wondering. You better get in while it's hot as it's due to close (noo!) in roughly a month's time. We need something like this for keeps! My eyes and ears are peeled for the next chapter. Exciting times ahead.

Missing SSM already! Let's hope they reincarnate into something else pronto Credit: Alana Dimou, Broadsheet Sydney

Thanks for reading!

xGourmand

Cafe Paci

Blink and you'll miss it. Chef Pasi Petänen has pulled a rabbit out of a hat with his first solo venture in Darlinghurst, Cafe Paci (ex-Cafe Pacifico with the 'fico' now scrubbed). It is a triumph on all accounts. The restaurant stakes in Sydney have just been edged up a notch, much to the delight of diners. Whether you're a glass half full or empty kind of person, this restaurant is only around for a year. Opening in August last year, Cafe Paci will be closing its doors so I'd advise you get your skates on.

Cue the fanfare! Surely a contender as one of Sydney's best desserts, Petänen's yoghurt, carrot and liquorice Credit: Time Out Sydney

Petänen has kept a rather low profile, working as head chef of Marque for 8 years before searching for a site to call his own. The restaurant is a Spartan grey which has been applied liberally by  George Livissianis (also designing for Apollo), right down to the tables and chairs. It's as if a paint bomb has gone off and the day's work was declared done. The sparse lighting also had the effect of the room getting darker and greyer as the evening progressed. Quite peculiar! Being such a huge garage space, the restaurant has a slightly underground feel which matches the experimental food nicely.

Going for the stark grey on grey look @ Cafe Paci (Pah-si) Credit: Urban Walkabout

The menu gives practically nothing away, purely listing ingredients but behind the scenes is a different story. The technique, time (read: hours) and effort that has gone into each of the dishes is immense! You can almost imagine Petänen 'tinkering' as he experimented with new flavours and ingredients. The restaurant's kitchen sits shrouded behind a heavy grey curtain as if from a stage show (behind is where the magic happens). It really felt like the Wizard of Oz. The menu is set, like a degustation but for the bargain basement price of $85 (oh yes, you read right). We are left intrigued none the less as to what lay ahead.

Part 1. Snacks

The idea is something quite similar to Sixpenny, a restaurant dear to my foodie heart. These offer the perfect opportunity to improvise and try new things with a hungry audience.

A tribute to Cafe Pacifico, rye taco with sticky rice, egg butter, sour onions and chives (left). And (from left to right) rye crostini with dehydrated duck, rose and butter. Sweet corn with butter and shichimi togarashi (Japanese 7 spice). Cripy salt and vinegar barramundi skin. Butter seems to be feature prominently here!

Normally I wouldn't bother to show your bread, because hey - how interesting could it be? But boy, this mini loaf was incredible. A mix of rye and potato, then coated with sticky molasses for an extra sheen. This bread was a mini highlight from the start. The freshly churned butter doesn't hurt either

Part 2. Entrée & Main

Blue swimmer crab, sorrel, plum. A collective "Wow" was breathed when this arrived at the table. Such a beautiful dish showcasing seasonal produce in all its simplicity. The crab mixed with sorrel and mayonnaise was lovely and creamy but I think the fruit topped it off. Such an inventive combination. And that red plum! Probably the best I've ever eaten

Veal tartare, smoked bone marrow, broccoli, anchovies, onion. A splatter of shaven broccoli to garnish the tartare of the finest veal. It was a winner

B.L.B (Bacon, lettuce, bonito). A take it or leave it course (well, compared to the rest anyway) this was a re-worked Caesar salad. The baby cos (vegetable) component was a welcome relief, only to be laced with smoky bacon 

Photato: a new version of the Vietnamese classic. I was expecting a broth to be poured over the top but no. To be frank, the dish barely needed soup because everything works so well. The lightly seared Blackmore wagyu steak was incredibly tender and the fresh Tasmanian wasabi a nice accompaniment. Enoki mushrooms intermingle with potato noodles (resembling rice vermicelli only in looks), garnished with fried garlic chips, watercress and grilled Meyer lemon. A meal in itself!

Part 3. Dolce & Petits Fours

An unassuming dish at first glance, Petänen's carrot, yoghurt, liquorice dessert. Oh my word, this was AMAAAZING. A delicate cloud of yoghurty who-knows-what (perhaps mousse is the best word) hiding a very delicious secret. Inside is a carrot sorbet topping a thin layer of liquorice cake. The carrot is rather nondescript in flavour but the aniseed really comes through, and rather pleasant at that (understatement of the year). A clever play on the humble poached egg

Malt, banana, parsley. It was an impossible task to out-do the first dessert course but this was a stirling effort. A dessert inspired by a Marque original, a rich dark chocolate mousse coated in chewy malt (an inside out malteser), banana purée and parsley sorbet. The candied parsley leaf was a nice touch

Corn & butter (left) and pork & fennel (right). Fairy floss dusted in popcorn anyone? Finally, pork crackling covered in chocolate, salt and fennel seeds. What a Finnish (pun intended)!

Compliments must go to the chef. If this doesn't win you accolades, I don't know what will. Cafe Paci offers some of the most innovative food in town and it is all bloomin' delicious. Pasi Petänen is amongst Sydney's 'New Guard', mentioned in the Fin Review. Terry Durack gave it a sensational 16/20, a real breakthrough! Probably one of the best things about this restaurant is its creative freedom. Based strongly on technique, Petänen has developed a very interesting and conceptual menu that mixes Finnish, Vietnamese and Mexican influences (go figure). The details in every dish are both intricate and exquisite, a real joy. May I suggest you try it before it's gone for good!

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

A Long Lunch with Matthew Evans

Sydney's Good Food Month has kicked off with a bang, and a spit roast. Oh yes, you read right. This momentous (and lamby) occasion was to mark the release of Matthew Evans' a.k.a. Gourmet Farmer new memoir, The Dirty Chef. His latest book documents his bold tree change from bustling Sydney to the tranquil of the Huon Valley in southern Tassie. And what better way to enjoy the October sunshine than a lamb spit roast and a long lunch? Warning: this post is not recommended for vegetarians.

Taming the Beast: this was our welcome. Hot fat drips into the coals and plumes of smoke puff back at you, tauntingly. Want a piece of me? [That was rhetorical, obviously]

Our luxuriously long lunch was hosted by The Commons, the 'local eating house' of Darlinghurst. A venue much suited because of their philosophy of sourcing food locally and knowing its origins. Ethical food choices are what they are all about and this is a message that Evans' also endeavours to get out there. Much of the produce from the lunch was sustainably sourced by providore Feather and Bone, whom you can find at Pyrmont Markets. I've written a bit about these ideas in a post that you can find here. Glass of La Zona prosecco in hand, you can't help but enjoy the surrounds!

The outdoor courtyard at The Commons, home to the spit roast lamb for this afternoon delight.

We were in for a looong lunch, 4 courses of a sharing style menu designed by Matthew in conjunction with the Commons kitchen. A veritable Spring feast i.e. the best. Here's my photographic rundown... Bon appetit!

Fried local zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and herbs. Plump and stuffed with creamy-as ricotta, these babies were a delicious and crispy starter

Charcuterie board (left) and Chicken liver crostini (right). The charcuterie by Feather and Bone included bresaola (a favourite amongst us), prosciutto and salami - cured meats that were surprisingly sweet and mellow. I'm a bit of a closet paté/terrine fan so this smooth liver crostini was lovely

Grilled mackerel stuffed with salsa verde. A sustainable fish course presenting a vibrant green hue. This was one of my personal favourites, with a squeeze of lemon and a smear of aïoli the little mackerel packs a punch

The mackerel (left, ain't it pretty?) and right, seasonal vegetables - a warm salad of asparagus (new in season), heirloom carrot and broad bean

Le pièce de résistance: whole 2 week dry-aged biodynamic White Suffolk lamb from Lynden Farm, Oberon NSW. Carved up with expertise by Matthew and Grant from Feather and Bone. Boom.

The lamb, in case you were wondering was the star. Rather tender, rather crispy skin, rather amazing. If we only had one plate for lunch, this would be more than enough. But no, we've gone for seconds and thirds and fourths...It makes me smile :)

For dessert we had a cheeseboard of Marrook farm biodynamic Brinawa (Tilsit style) cow's milk farmhouse cheese but this was the main event: blood orange, polenta & olive oil cake with mascarpone. Oh boy, this was a thing of beauty. The occasional crunch of the polenta grains was a nice textural touch.

Three glorious hours later we were nursing our food babies and listening to Matthew tell us about the highs and lows of working the land (he now has 2 farms to keep him busy) and a sneak peek into his upcoming project (which smells a bit fishy, hint hint). Evans is as down-to-earth and hospitable in real life as he seems on our TV screens. This afternoon was a wonderful feast of ideas, great food and good company. What more could you ask for?

Evans' new memoir, The Dirty Chef - a rather curious title indeed! I've got my signed copy next on the reading list ;)

Thanks for reading and Happy Long Weekend!

x Gourmand

Fright Night

Oh what a night!

On Friday a few gal pals and I went to a Halloween Dessert Degustation over at Studio Neon, Waterloo. I've always been a long time fan of pop-up events but being in another state has always stopped me from attending such events in Sydney! Anywho, times are a changin'! This was the first blogger event hosted by Billy Law (Masterchef season 3, blogger @ A Table for Two), Karen (Citrus & Candy) & Phuoc (Phuoc'n Delicious). Food blogger pride!

The long table (lovin' this!) and our three hosts for the evening: Billy, Phuoc & Karen (left to right) - busy little bees the whole night (Gangnam style!)

Our first mission was to find the venue, we wandered a little lost only to be eventually directed upstairs. The layout was so nifty and you could tell there had been a lot of work put into the decorating. Black speakers were stacked up to the ceiling along one wall (death metal was the prevailing theme there), spooky static on several TVs around the place (reminded me a little too much of the Ring, eep!) and dozens of wax dripped candles (naturally). The dining area comprised a single long table with mismatched chairs and an abutting lounge area to enjoy a tipple and a Reese's peanut butter cup (couldn't resist). I couldn't help but feel a little bit festive. I hadn't done anything for Halloween since trick-or-treating back in my primary school days :P

Just chillin': I was super impressed with the set up here. Who knew Sydney was hiding away places like this? Sneaky.

Unbeknownst to us, we were in store for a dessert marathon (should've paid more attention to the event title)! Those Reese's might have been a bad idea. No matter, we had party bags to stow them away with for the road/significant others :)

It was all looking pretty profesh really! The planning and I'm imagining the prep would have been meticulous. I distinctly recall Billy blogging that he had tempered about 5kg of white chocolate for his dessert. Incredible, him slaving away all for us. Masterchef, eat your heart out! What's more there were two sittings for the night. There'd be some definite red-eye for the hosts methinks! They even had a bar set up with creepily themed cocktails ($13 each). Take this one for example:

Think of the children/babies! This pastel green number was appropriately named 'Human Sacrifice', a minty chocolate cocktail. Other drinks creatively employed dry ice and fake blood! Don't mind if I do...

An interesting twist to the night was that the 6 course degustation was played out in reverse. We started with petits-fours (no tea or coffee however!) and ended with an amuse bouche. By the fourth dessert, we were gagging for a bit (i mean, A LOT) of salt, let me tell you! Lucky we had bowls of spicy pop-corn (smoked paprika, cayenne pepper & burnt butter) on tap (phew!). That and litres of water to wash the sugar down. What is typically referred to as a 'sugar rush' (with all those warm & fuzzy connotations) was more a friggin' sugar tsunami. We were fighting off diabetes with a stick that night! Sighs of relief emanated from along the table when we were told that the last two courses would be savoury...OH THANK GOD. Anyway, here were the night's proceedings:

Petit-fours: a trio of balsamic strawberry jubes (not very acidic, more sickly sweet), pineapple marshmallows (lovely hint of pineapple here and so pillowy soft!) & la pièce de résistance: Billy's macarons. The original dessert queen strikes again haha. Look out Zumbo/Ladurée (no seriously)! I don't have to tell you what a macaron should taste like but those black sesame shells were perfectly crispy. The filling was pretty out there (fine by me!) - pumpkin puree and blue cheese! KA POW!

Phuoc's dessert contribution: a deconstructed apple crumble (left) and molecular gastronomy cocktail (right). The moscato cocktail was topped with apple spheres that we watched them make beforehand with a syringe of gel/puree, dropped into a magical mystery chemical. Very Heston/Ferran Adría! The crumble put a nice spin on a very traditional British dessert. A quinelle of refreshing apple sorbet lay on a bed of crumble laced with popping candy to keep us on our toes! Garnished with a square of cinnamony puff pastry and ribbons of apple jelly. If apple was the brief here I think it was pretty much nailed!

1234: trust Billy to inject theatre into the night :) His Snow White dessert was the star of the show (or should I say dessert diva?). Warm raspberry coulis was poured over the tempered white chocolate dome to melt away and reveal it's innards. MUAHAHAHA...inside was an icy raspberry/rose/lychee mousse hemisphere with pistachio & oat crumb. Phwoar! A complete show-stopper. 

Okay so after the third consecutive dessert course my blood sugar was reaching crisis point. We had but one more to go...! It was time to call on my eating willpower (boundless as you well know) and 3rd stomach...

Karen's 'Bowl of Dirt': definitely looks better than it sounds lol. A chocolate parfait covered with minty chocolate dirt (Fisherman's friend apparently!), caramelised white chocolate crumb and maraschino cherries. Mm-Mmm. At this point, I was half keeled over in my seat. The portions were SO GENEROUS that there was no way I could finish the thing. Props to whoever conquered the beast.

And to the next course! Roll up, roll up...

We welcomed the next two courses with open arms and mouths. On the right, we had a platter of lamb ribs and pulled pork accompanied by braised balsamic red cabbage and apple puree mixed thru with walnuts. Very yummy. The meat was deliciously tender (hours in the oven I am sure). And I can't forget to mention that cauliflower puree that was so creamy it might have been more cream/butter than vegetable. Well, won't we all just be a picture of health once we're done?! HELP! The last course was an amuse (thank goodness!) - a pumpkin soup with just a hint of carrot and pork crackling croutons (them were good). Don't you just love the lil espresso cups they used?

So! I won't be hungry for days.

I must say, I felt so at home during this event. It was food blogger heaven. At each course unveiling, we would all have cameras/phones poised to capture EVERYTHING. It was a lovely atmosphere. I for one always feel pretty self-conscious whipping out my camera to shoot something but food photography was most definitely encouraged. Won-der-ful! Billy, who was so apt at playing host was on the case during the night and has already posted about it all here. By the end of it all, I was so contented I couldn't get up from my chair. We reluctantly left following requisite book signing/mini photo sesh and into the night. Let me just say that the three of them did a magnificent job. The night ran so smoothly and they executed it with aplomb. I had a great time. Can't wait for the next event...a tea party perhaps? Fab :D

Happy Halloween peeps and thanks for reading! x