Rockpool est. 1989

In the fish bowl. Mitch Orr, Dan Hong and a few other familiar faces! Clearly loving it.

The scene was set. Seven of Sydney's hottest cheffing talents were ready and raring to go. The occasion was the Josephine Pignolet 25th Anniversary Young Chefs Dinner. And I couldn't think of a finer place to host this special dinner other than Rockpool which, in its new incarnation on Bridge Street oozes style and substance. A handful of the previous winners were charged with delivering a dish each representing them and just how far they've come. It's a tough game, the restaurant business.

Let the games begin!

Established in 1990, the Josephine Pignolet Award recognises the accomplishments of young talented chefs. The award was named after the late Josephine Pignolet, the wife of Damien Pignolet, and cook herself. Going from strength to strength, the award is coveted and includes a placement in an overseas kitchen, flights and a substantial cash prize. Tonight, was all about celebration - reaching a silver anniversary and a showcase of the finest and innovative food in town. Following is a snapshot of some of those delicious eats. Enjoy.

Rockpool was in charge of the canapés and boy did they rock our socks off. Sea urchin on squid ink cracker and black garlic purée. Umm, okay Rockpool - this was kind of amazing

Drunken Storm Clam - yep, it just got better. I must admit many of us were scratching our heads as to WHAT this was (mollusc wise) but it tasted awesome, and the slightly tangy dressing made it a complete package. Possibly the best canapé I've had in my LIFE.

Mitch Orr - ACME, Rushcutters Bay

Burrata, burnt bread, tomato. Mitch Orr is certainly making a scene in Rushcutters Bay at ACME, reviving a little pocket of undiscovered 'hipster' Sydney. This dish was an exciting way to start - the burrata had an irresistibly creamy inside and the burnt bread an intriguing addition to the light tomato infused dressing

Dan Puskas - Sixpenny, Stanmore

Poached potato with oyster and mushroom. Daintily covered in razor thin slices of mushroom, the potato was covered in what can only be described as beurre blanc goodness. The powdered oyster had an extremely subtle flavour as a dusting

Hamish Ingham - Bar H, Surry Hills

Mooloolaba Bug Tail, pickled celtuce, yuzu kosho & wasabi leaf. I asked myself one thing eating this dish. Why the heck haven't I been to Bar H?!?! Silly woman. This was proabably my favourite of the night. The slightly cured bug (but essentially raw) was accompanied beautiful by an explosion of textures and flavours with a hint of chilli. Bravo

Dan Hong - Mr Wong, Sydney

Double boiled soup with kangaroo tail and baby abalone. It's bound to happen, you start to pit the dishes against one another and unfortunately this wasn't up there. The soup was consommé clear but there was a bitter taste to the broth that I just couldn't shake. Perhaps it was touch of pith from the lime? Not sure. The tail meat was lovely and tender, the abalone was decidedly not.

Mark Best - Marque, Surry Hills

Mark Best was almost like the captain of the cricket team tonight. A sort of mentor like figure who was commanding this ship. His effort was Bar cod, fish & milk scales, pickled shiitake. What a pretty little thing. The cod was amazingly soft and cooked well, pity that it was lukewarm! The garnish tasted very, how should I say this? Green.

Phil Wood - Rockpool est. 1989, Sydney

Hot and sour oxtail with prawn and coriander. Well, well, well, can't menus be deceiving. This was the most deceptively complex dish of the night. The soft, shredded oxtail meat had been stuffed in a prawn MOUSSE which was then poached. It was pretty damned impressive (but also needed to be hotter when it hit the table).

Lauren Eldridge - Marque, Surry Hills
Also, this years JP Award winner!

Blue Mountains wildflower honeycomb and cultured cream. This was a pretty clever little dish. Kept it simple, stupid. A premade honeycomb (mind you a pretty bloody AMAZING one at that) sitting on a dollop of cultured cream. Smash it all together and you have two elements marry together perfectly well. A winner amongst diners.

Survived! It was a wonderful show of skill and teamwork too. The collegial spirit in the kitchen was so great to see. Hats off to them for a fantastic evening. Wow.

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

LuMi Bar & Dining

Hello Munchkins!
I'm back and I must confess it was a little harder than usual to get back into the blogging groove. This year has been fast paced, hectic and jam-packed with foodie amazing-ness that I can't wait to share. And how is it already May, pray tell?! First up is my peek at LuMi Bar & Dining, which has revived the obscure Pyrmont wharf where it can be found. P.S. get ready to feel zen at this incredible absolute waterfront that money can't buy (especially not in this town).

Veal tartare: a technicolour treat of veal, tarragon emulsion, roasted capsicums and buckwheat. Such a stunner, one of my favourite dishes of the night, brought to life with the textural buckwheat and astringent tarragon purée. You already had me at tartare...

Your first task is to locate this little restaurant, where few Sydneysiders have ventured before. It is tucked away with little signage from the main walkway along the water but the glow from dozens of light globes may be a clue (like a moth to a flame). The dining room clearly takes a leaf from the Scandinavians (devotees to minimalism), with a simple, modernist fit-out in hues of purple and green and looong open kitchen. The galaxy of bulbs that glow above you during your meal are more than perfect for the aptly named restaurant (which actually combines the names of Chef Zanellato's daughters Luna and Mia).

"You are confined only by the walls you create" - a window safety warning gets all philosophical on us. Now this is a room with a view

Chef Federico Zanellato had been honing his skills as head chef at top notch restaurant Ormeggio at the Spit before paddling out to have a crack himself. I think Italian-Japanese fusion is an interesting point of difference although Zanellato plays to his strengths with strictly Italian flavours (and I'm grateful for that). Although, the spin on chawanmushi was pushing the boundaries a little too far for me. With plenty of carbohydrates to keep myself happy, the eight course tasting menu flowed seamlessly and the service was outstanding.

Some snacks to accompany the first round of cocktails: cheese tartlet and corn, pistachio and horseradish on cos lettuce and potato and rosemary focaccia (left). Salt and vinegar rice chip (left). A few tasty morsels to get the tastebuds going - the rice crisp was by far the best

Chawanmushi: a Japanese inspired steamed custard, that brings together classic Italian flavours of tomato and basil. Mind-bending but I can't go past the original I'm afraid!

White cucumber with apple and sour cream. Someone has gone to town with a disc cutter here! A gorgeous dish that evokes Disney princesses and fairytales.  A lovely and light salad with sweet and sharp notes

Spelt ravioli with pumpkin, burnt butter, avruga (caviar, darling) and chives. Isn't this simply spectacular?! The pasta was definitely the star of the show, little translucent delicacies that explode their pumpkin filling in the mouth ¡Ay, caramba! 

Spaghetti alla Chitarra: scampi, bottarga (salted fish roe) and orange beurre blanc. A rich and creamy spaghetti that is not for the faint hearted. The scampi, scarcely cooked singing with notes from the sea (thanks to the bottarga). The pasta itself, silky and jet-black. So. Delicious.

Pork jowl with spinach, celeriac and quinoa. After those pasta dishes that took the cake, it's hard to keep up that level of excitement (for me anyway). The jowl, although cooked perfectly was a little lack lustre in terms of the completeness of the dish. It misses that imagination and creativity captured so well with other dishes. The portion size was also rather small

And then there was, DOLCE.

'Evergreen' - sorrel, lemon basil, mint shiso and parsley (left) and ginger ice cream, white chocolate, passionfruit and yoghurt crumble (right). The first dessert went a little stir-crazy with all the herbaceous inclusions. Although keeping to a theme, each element was competing on the plate and clashed. It needed another element to mellow everything out. The ginger ice cream was definitely a step up with a subtle, more muted flavour. Just a trace... 

LuMi Bar & Dining certainly sets its heights high with a bold fusion menu that intrigues. Chef Zanellato and team have ambition written all over this project and are to be commended on their efforts. The pasta dishes were easily a stand-out and show off the obvious talent in the kitchen. LuMi is an exciting addition onto the Sydney scene that is groaning with all the burger joints and barbecues cropping up everywhere. Enter a class act with plenty of finesse. Prego!

Thanks for reading gang!
xGourmand

Chiswick at the Gallery

It only feels like yesterday that I was reviewing Chiswick on the leafy streets of Woollahra. As with all restaurant empires; one has the irrepressible desire to divide, multiply and conquer. Matt Moran has seized a rare opportunity to give the restaurant at the Art Gallery of New South Wales a timely revamp, opening Chiswick at the Gallery late last year. For years I had ignored the fact there was an upstairs restaurant - reserved for the likes of functions and weddings. The Caesar salad from the café downstairs was starting to look like an old friend. But times are a changin'!

Props. A complete transformation of what was already a prime location overlooking the Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf Photo credit: Chiswick Restaurant

Moran has injected the gallery with a bit of the Eastern suburbs Chiswick vibe and I'd say it's pretty welcome. One of the most pleasing restaurant interiors I've seen in a long time, not a sprig of rosemary is out of place nor a picture frame askew. It's freakishly perfect here. And light! There is light streaming in from the two sides of floor to ceiling windows. A great relief from the squinty darkness we have been enduring for ages in many (too many) establishments.  

Petuna ocean trout gravlax, fennel, mustard, dill. A started which was flying out of the kitchen. The gravlax was divine, and the fennel salad a low-key side. I could eat this kind of thing all day every day

Perched high on a stool at the communal table we had a view into the kitchen - this is usually a favourite spot of mine to dine were it not for the constant, sometimes frantic cry of "Service!". Under the pump, the noise emanating from the kitchen competes with the dining room. It got a little distracting I must admit. To the menu, and all the Chiswick tried and tested favourites reappear like the slow-roasted Moran family lamb. It's got signature written all over it, if you can look past the $72 price tag. That's like 72 killer pythons from the old days (imagine the possibilities). There's a decent range of dishes on offer, so you can build up your own menu or try the set menu which often includes an entry ticket to the gallery. As an aside, the Pop to Popism exhibition was a nice meander through the decades of pop art.

Pumpkin ravioli, broccolini, lemon, raisins. Delicate house made ravioli with a sweet pumpkin filling and buttery sauce. Faultless. MAJOR highlight/deliciousness going on here

Battered flathead fillets, chips, tartare sauce. Ever trusty on a summer Sydney menu, this generous serving definitely hit the spot

Pan-fried salmon fillet, fennel, quinoa, dandelion. This mesmerising piece of tableware detracted from the beautiful simplicity of this dish. The salmon skin was lovely and crispy, albeit a bit overcooked on the inside (for me anyway). More fennel on the side tick tick tick

And a sweet to finish:

Chiswick chocolate mousse cake with candied orange peel. A layered mousse cake hides under the dusted outer shell. It's a winner for texture and a sure-hit with chocolate lovers (raise your hands)

Modelled off the Woollahra, kitchen garden prototype - the ladies who lunch will be very glad to have a CBD outpost a stone's throw from the botanical gardens. Chiswick may appear elitist but it exudes an easy-going attitude that makes you feel at home instantly.   Now that the AGNSW has a restaurant to rival The Pavilion across the road, those enviable views just got a little bit better. It'll cost you a pretty penny - but what doesn't these days.

Thanks for reading!

xGourmand

The Governor's Table

As if straight from the pages of a glossy interiors magazine, The Governor's Table is a haven for design buffs. Come with a keen eye or better still, an empty stomach and you'll be rewarded handsomely. TGT is the revamped diner of the Museum of Sydney, oft overlooked since the flashy refurbishment of the Museum of Contemporary Art smack bang on Sydney Harbour. The smaller venue and  more intimate dining space are just a few of its many charms.

One of the dishes of the night, a rather smashing mushroom gnocchi with pesto

Taking cues from the sandstone original, design mob Inochi DesignLife have transformed the space into a fully functional bar and restaurant that stays open all day. With splashes of Scandinavian influence in the mismatched timber chairs, the space speaks to its roots with liberal use stone and wood. A sixteen seat French oak dining table is the restaurant's centrepiece adorned with native Australian blooms. It fits like a glove, to say the least.

The happy juxtaposition of old and new makes for a pretty gorgeous dining room and bar Source: The Governor's Table

Behind the stoves the talent isn't really lacking either, Tim Ryan (ex-Aria and Chiswick) has honed a menu that is rather on point. With plates that are easy to share, Ryan's modern interpretation of classic flavours add another element of interest. The menu is wide ranging from ricotta hotcakes (for a cheeky breakfast) to formal banquet style dining (for groups over 10), you barely need an excuse to come here. On top of that, the drinks list is not too shabby, with aptly named cocktails like 'Waratah' and 'The Governor's Rum' and draught beers from Sydney Brewery on tap. 

To kick the night off: duck liver parfait, beetroot pickle (left) and grilled king prawns, salsa verde and aioli (right). The parfait was slightly on the more grainy side which is a great shame because the beets were gorgeously prepared. The grilled prawns run the race of the entrées, being perfectly grilled and charry (so moorish).  Aïoli features in almost every bar snack and entrée here, and with good reason - it's pretty damn well amazing

Wild mushroom, taleggio & truffle arancini, pecorino. These arancini were some of the best I've eaten of late, losing all the glugginess that dominates other versions. You can't taste the truffle but it hardly matters

Another star of the show: snow crab, roast tomatoes, saffron rouille, semolina noodles. A preview photograph off the website was all it took and I was convinced. A winning combination from the start, the fine threads of crab were mixed well with the noodles and a very light dressing to let the ingredients do all the work. Simple, really!

Braised beef short rib, parsnip purée, gentlemen's relish. A bit of mystery surrounds what exactly 'gentlemen's relish' is - a few drinks later and it might be a euphemism. The beef itself was a bit unevenly cooked being chewy in some parts but then medium-rare in others. The parsnip chips on the other hand practically flew off the plate

Mamma mia, that gnocchi was good. Potato gnocchi, slippery jacks, rocket sauce, pecorino. Cooked in water, then finished off in a pan with butter (well, one could only presume). Slightly crispy but soft inside, it makes for a pretty fine dish. The rocket pesto and mushies were just an added bonus

Ice cream & dulce de leche sandwich. A little morsel of sweetness to round off the meal. As you can well imagine, it was rather sweet on sweet (but we asked for it). It's no Reuben Hills' 'Doggs breakfast' but you know, a decent effort

The Governor's Table dishes out in spades is what the CBD has been crying out for; a stylish café/restaurant for the hungry masses. This is modern Australian food done really well, without the hugely inflated price tag that you'll find about two blocks over (read: Circular Quay or Bridge Lane). Already boasting indoor/outdoor dining, TGT is on the verge of opening up its second stage with many more tables. I actually quite like the cosy version 1.0 but what can you do. These are exciting times for the MoS. With these sorts of quality venues sprouting up (The Mint's Bistro is yet another), the future's looking bright for us Sydneysiders. 

Okay, so it's no Vogue Living spread but I'm paying homage nonetheless. Get a bunch of friends or family together and you could have yourselves a cracking dinner party, and no washing up to boot! Win-win.

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

Under Lock & Quay

Despite having spent two decades in the one place, there are still a multitude of restaurants and bars that I haven't visited. I've barely scratched the surface in fact, it's quite amazing. The contemporary dining scene is an ever evolving beast. We've seen the emergence of small bars in Sydney (FTW!), 'dude' food (enter: deep fat fryer) and Mexican is having a major moment. Fads come and go but there are few restaurants that have stood the test of time and come out swinging on the fine dining scene. Quay is certainly one of the above.  

Amuse bouche: goats cheese with capers, roe, olive crumbs and dill. In the tiniest glass we were served the first treat. A lovely balance of textures and flavours, to jumpstart the palate

Ranking 48th Restaurant in the World and 3 chefs hats for 12 consecutive years, Quay has been sitting right at the top of my foodie bucket list for the longest time. It's the epitome of fine dining in my home town and tonight was the night! The restaurant itself makes a bold statement in polished metal and floor to ceiling glass windows. Perched atop the Overseas Passenger Terminal it affords some pretty prime views of the Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House. Although I do have an axe to grind about all the cruise liners that virtually eclipse it all (everyday during peak season).

Congee of Northern Australian mud crab, fresh palm heart, egg yolk emulsion. This was an instant favourite on the table!

With its stellar reputation for execution of technique and marrying native Australian and Asian influences, Quay barely needs the publicity. But it was certainly the feature of a certain dessert on TV that got my attention. The 'original' guava snow egg featured on Masterchef Season 1 was just about IT for me. I was completely sold and dying to try it for myself. After that came the 8 texture chocolate cake. Oh mah gawd... Don't try that one at home, it's doomed to fail. Essentially, Peter Gilmore seems to know what he's doing (massive understatement). It's been Restaurant of the Year just how many times now..?

Sashimi of local lobster, bergamot, young almonds, grapefruit, elderflowers. Look, if you're going to give sashimi anything a crack, I think Quay is the place. The sashimi (cut so thin it is barely perceptible in the dish!) is draped on a hill of tiny grapefruit segments - each individually picked! The lobster meat is so delicate that it is slightly overpowered by the strong circusy tang of the grapefruit

The service for one, is quite exceptional. I could only describe it as 'ultra' professional, it's definitely up another notch. The whole  evening functions like a well oiled machine, the service is almost choreographed. You get precisely what you pay for, and that's quite a relief. The starched white tablecloths act as a blank slate for each successive course. After each the plates are whisked away and new cutlery replaced, gleaming. Degustation dedicates a lot of time to ritual and routine.

Line caught iku mime Tasmanian squid, squid ink custard, society garlic, pink turnips. Wowsers, this was a great dish, the squid was cooked beautifully and so tenderrrr. If you didn't know you'd think they were noodles!  

One of the very best things is the surprise and delight when each dish hits the table. A sigh of joy, wonder and anticipation settles around the table. It's so wonderful! You can't even begin to fathom how a dish was made let alone the conception of each dish. Gilmore is clearly an ideas man, quite the genius. And the beauty! You can barely start digging in for spoiling it! 

The mains:

Poached Rangers Valley beef, bitter chocolate black pudding, morel, ezekiel crumbs, shaved mushrooms. Such an interesting flavour combination in that sauce

Suffolk lamb loin, eggplant skin and olive purée, sheeps milk crème fraîche, fresh and preserved flowers. Meltingly good...

Roasted snapper, Japanese white turnips, barletta onions, sauce made from the roe. Flowers have never looked this appetising...

Berkshire pig jowl, maltose crackling, prunes, cauliflower cream, perfumed with prune kernel oil. The faux crackling nearly fooled me, apart from the sickly sweetness. The cream was incredibly smooth and the primes a lovely richness that matched the pork perfectly. YUM

DOLCE. 
Wait for it...!

Sampling each of these delightful dishes I couldn't help but wonder where restaurants like this are heading. Gilmore's food is at once harmonious, balanced and considered to the 'n'- th degree. Quite extraordinary considering the surge of American, fast food-type that has become so popular. Well, Quay is basically their diametric opposite. My concern is that these legendary institutions are destined to become museum pieces. The state of the economy is undeniable and these restaurants need to stay in the game with good business acumen. The prix fixe or lunch special is just one way to keep ahead.

Quay's eight texture chocolate cake. The drama in this dish is swoon-worthy. The warm chocolate sauce melts through the centre of the cake. It is at once complex and so simple, certainly something to behold! 

The highest of highs in the dessert world. Coconut and cherry snow egg, an exclusive for the summer. Surprisingly it is quite a sizeable dessert (all the more for eating & adoring)! Mind. blown.

The not-to-be-missed macro shot. Poached meringue, cherry granita and fresh cherries. The latter being so essential to a true Australian summer. So many elements that have been utterly perfected. This is an iconic dish, if there ever was one. AMAZING

Quay is just one of those places that you need to experience for yourself. The critiques are the minutest of minute, it's practically flawless. Gilmore and his team in the kitchen deserve praise for the time, dedication and effort put towards every component of each dish (of which there are sometimes dozens). Find your excuse and save the date, mind you it could be 6 months away if you're hoping for a Saturday night. An essential dining experience in my book!

To top it all off, there are these beautiful views to boot! #touristinmyowncity

Thanks for reading this rather epic instalment!
xGourmand