Snapshot: Paramount Coffee Project

When Reuben Hills exploded onto the Sydney scene near two years ago, we were mighty pleased to hear that a spin off was not far off. Paramount Coffee Project was here to rescue the spillover, or so I thought. The space itself cannot be faulted, open plan with lots of natural light. The cafe space is shared with Tokyo Bike, a steady rotation of pop-up stores and the Golden Age Cinema (the old screening room of Paramount Pictures). The whole concept is a genius approach to commerce, a veritable hipster magnet.

Coffees to start: iced latte (beans from Reuben Hills), the perfect way to start brunch

Arriving at the ebb of the brunch crowd was a good move, we waited only 15 minutes for a seat at what was little more than a tray table for 3 people (a bit optimistic?). The service was brisk and perhaps a bit forgetful (it's okay, you can write it down). Lucky we weren't in any great rush. The cafe itself is rather plush with its metres high ceiling, big windows and space for coffee tastings, a central banquet and outdoor tables. Just what we needed I think.

Modern, clean and minimal interiors by Fox Johnston which are a triumph Photo credit: Fox Johnston and The Design Files

The menu takes its inspiration from Reuben Hills' revival of dude food but perhaps PCP takes it a step too far. I'm all for a greasy handful of a Reuben sandwich once in a while but this was a bit much in hindsight. The poached chicken salad and Avo on rye seemed like more sensible options, which I promptly ignored. Bad move? The aim of the game at PCP is quick turnover = lots of covers. The service is rather fast and furious but we rather deliberately took our time.  

Crab Po Boy: soft shell crab, house slaw, ranch dressing, milk bun and onion rings. Oh yes, this was the pièce de resistance I think. Who doesn't love a bit of SSC in a brioche bun? My only comment would be that the onion rings were a bit undercooked/blonde. They should take a squiz at The Rook's version = to die for

Elvis in Cuba: pork, kimchi, bacon, kewpie, swiss cheese and pickle ($19, I die). This was my own rather unfortunate doing I know :S Both bacon and sliced pork with kimchee and melted cheese - I think it was doomed to fail from the start. Nothing went together here and it reminded me of a rather thrown-together home hangover cure...nasty. This dish proves that kewpie does not make everything better

Meat Waffle: shredded pork neck, BBQ, green tomato, fried egg, shallot and hush puppies. I think you have to be in the right frame of mind to take this baby on. Let me assure you, this is no duck waffle from Cumulus Up. I was rather curious as to what 'Hush Puppies' actually were apart from rather ergonomic footwear. Turns out, they're balls of dried up polenta, crumbed and fried. This dish proves that deep frying does not make everything better

Pot Pourri/Rose iced tea (left) and Schnickers/Vanilla Malt shake (right). A couple of saving graces, the shake was amazing apart from the hefty price tag ($8)

Look, I'm probably standing alone here but I was fairly disappointed and I think it stemmed from the rather uninspired menu. Riding on the successes of Reuben Hills, you can't deny how outrageously popular PCP has become. It's a beautiful space for sure and you can be guaranteed yourself a good brew (of the coffee variety) but that's about where it stops sadly. The concept of this space is so brilliant but is let down in execution. My advice? An early morning cup of coffee and you're set. That, or head to Reuben Hills where the grass is definitely greener. 

Fancy a bike? Score a fixed gear beauty for a small fortune @ Tokyo Bike. Err what's with the wallaby? Photo: Fox Johnston

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

Nomad

Sydney, this is how you do it. The Sydney dining scene is seeing a resurgence of 'the wine bar' *cheers*. Changes in liquor licensing laws some years ago have been met with Gen-Yers spending their (few) dollars on a curated glass of vino. Places like Monopole, 10 William St, and Wine Library are leading the way. Nomad is a newie following suit in Surry Hills with an emphasis on Australian wine. Who knew we could hold our own? 

A design lover's paradise; the sun drenched restaurant/cellar door Credit: Broadsheet Sydney

I first walked past this warehouse space (formerly the site of the Spence & Lyda showroom) some months ago, and was  curious as to what was opening. By the end of last year, Nomad was born in true style, reminiscent of restaurants in NYC or Northern Europe. The copious blonde timber finishes and flashy central kitchen make this 150 seater sure to impress. The charcuterie hanging in all its glory in the custom built drying room doesn't hurt either. It ticks all those design aesthetic boxes for me.  

Head Chef Nathan Sasi who has Rockpool, Husk (in Sth Carolina) and Heston Blumenthal's Dinner on his CV. A new generation of young guns forging their own way on the dining scene  Credit: Australian Financial Review

Opening a food & wine bar is as much an investment in funds as in hard yakka. Thankfully, Nomad has got some proper talent on board in Chef Nathan Sasi and Rob Geddes MW (niice). The popularity of independent films like Red Obsession and new Aussie publication, Alquimie - wine has certainly piqued our interest. For starters the majority of the menu is wines, 20 each of red and white with the food offerings at the back. Don't be fooled however, the food is very far from an afterthought and takes its  inspiration from the Middle East. The list also features each winemaker by name, giving credit where it is well due. I went for a happy medium in the Ngeringa 2011 Rose (Mount Barker, SA) which had a lovely smooth finish. 

Pages from the first edition of Alquimie. For a complete wine novice like myself, Alquimie is wine magazine very much in the style of Kinfolk. The article on the granite cellar in Giaconda's Vineyard is a must-read Credit: Another Something & Co.

More than once the wait staff had caught us clueless on what to order. It all looked moorish, to be frank. However, we were given some recommendations which didn't disappoint. Service was friendly and efficient at the start of the night, hopefully consistency is a strong suit as the hours wear on and there are more bums on seats.

Here is a sampler of what we ordered:

Okay, so I stupidly didn't take a photo of this amazing salad. A daily special it consisted radicchio, figs, toasted almonds and lashing of shaved manchego cheese. It was so simple yet heavenly! Credit: Food52

Raw Kingfish, preserved lemon, fennel, dill. I am sure this would be a very popular entrée. Each mouthful left you wanting more and the fennel was a pleasant 'something different'

Nomad Jersey Milk Haloumi, BBQ zucchini, pinenuts, raisins, water cress. This one was one of my favourites. The disc of haloumi was cooked perfectly, slightly stretchy with such a delicate flavour. A real winner for me

BBQ Lamb rump, Moroccan eggplant salad, sheeps yoghurt. Cooked in all its fat (i.e. goodness), this lamb dish is quite home style but no less impressive

Bunuelos, rose water and cardamom custard. We were fooled into thinking this would be a 'light' dessert, a spiced custard perhaps. Err no...fried doughnuts coming right up. Can't be helped haha. These were executed very well, not a trace of doughiness

Nomad 3 month aged goat cheese, membrillo, dried grapes, ash crackers. A final touch to the seal the deal

I don't know about you but I was sold after this meal. Yes it sits on the pricier side but for that you are getting the best in a pretty neat package. Whether you know wines or not (I sit very much in the latter) be prepared for a good time with a lovely wine in hand. Nomad has become a fast favourite in critic's circles and the full house night after night is a great omen. Terry Durack 'lavished' it with a solid 15/20 and 4 *'s from Time Out Sydney Nomad's future is looking very bright.

A final look at that décor, who could resist? Credit: The Love Assembly

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

Chow Bar & Eating House

Sydney's dining scene has become a game of musical chairs. A fickle beast, that's for sure. Chef Chui Lee Luk of Claude's fame (R.I.P. and case in point) is the latest to venture into more casual dining, a glaring sign of the times. Chow Bar & Eating House sits flush on Crown Street at the former Bentley restaurant site (who has upped stumps to the Radisson Blu Hotel in the CBD) - it's hard to keep up some times! This is an exercise in getting back to basics.

Drunken mussels with beer, galangal, lemongrass. A very similar dish featured in Claude's - quick, hot and moorish

As with so many venues in Sydney these days the emphasis is placed on beverages (you know what I mean) where the margins are much higher. Food is often an afterthought as a result (fried chicken and burgers get a bit old after a while) but not so at Chow. Luk's menu is an homage to her Malaysian roots and classical French training and technique. Seated at our long table with mahjong tiles inlaid, we soaked up the relaxed Sunday afternoon vibes. And to the difficult task of choosing from the menu, with a good range dishes  for sharing. Happy days.

The interiors by Giant Design remind me of a sort distressed version of the ritzy Mr Wong's on Bridge Lane. A den for drinks and snacks aplenty, this is a parlour without the seedy underbelly

First, some bar snacks to whet the appetite

Cannon Shot Dumplings filled with roast pork, shiitake, yam bean (L). Chilli dipping sauces (R). The dumplings were delicious morsels, delicately fried. So tiny you could easily polish off a bowl yourself but save room for what's to come!

Xin Chow Bao - DIY goat sausage, lettuce wrap. This dish was one of my favourites, a play on the traditional sang choi bao - this version uses goat (but you would never know, to be honest). The sausages are house made and boy doesn't that make a difference; juicy, succulent and begging you to go in for more

The main event

Fried cauliflower, seeds, hot mustard. This came in second for me, the heat from the mustard is a nice combo with the humble cauliflower. However I would have to say some pieces were a bit bitey and undercooked :/

Whole fish, black bean, capsicum, garlic. This dish is a total staple in traditional Chinese cooking. The fish was steamed to perfection and the black bean sauce a perfect complement - this one was gone in a flash

And Sweetie, darling

Avocado blancmange with cocoa jelly, pear, caramelised white chocolate. Wowsers, another beautiful Chui Lee Luk dessert. Thrown together with panache this dish is the perfect union of textures and flavour. The avocado blancmange itself was a  heavenly soft mousse, the dusting of white chocolate just in the right proportions. Miam-miam!

Egg custard tart (dan tat), a dish referenced from the hallowed halls of yum-cha. This Frenchified version served warm is no match to the original I'm afraid

Chow Bar & Eating has its sights firmly set on the bearded hipster Surry Hills set. Not taking itself too seriously and shaking the fusty rep of fine dining, this bar slash diner is all about a warm welcome, fun times and full bellies. Enjoy this one.

Numero uno, the mahjong mats set into the tables. A nice touch along with the joss stick (incense) inspired chopstick holders

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

Snapshot: Sydney Cafés III

Devon café has its head tightly screwed on. When it comes to coffee and café dining, it means business. Surrounding themselves with some proper talent (alumni from Guillaume and Toby's Estate), husband & wife team Derek Puah & Noni Widjaja have filled an apparent hole in Sydney's café market with Devon. A 2 minute walk from central station, this nook of Surry Hills is being revived of sorts. When we sauntered up to the shop front, both breakfast specials had been emphatically crossed off the specials blackboard. Dang it (great for them, bad for us). As is often the case in Sydney; you snooze, you lose.

The new golden arches? Uh, yes please Photo credit: The AU Review

Devon isn't just a bunch of hipster friends tinkering in the kitchen or with an espresso machine. The team is all about offering restaurant quality food with a decidedly casual mode of delivery. Devon's staff are proud that much of their pickles, preserves and cures are made in-house. The lengthy coffee menu goes into great detail about where beans are sourced and then you have the choice of espresso, cold-drip (already sold out on the day for us) or chemex. My head might explode with the choices. Amongst the camouflage netting the vertical herb garden in the courtyard is a nice touch.

The sunny plyboard interior with baby blue racing stripes Photo: The Urban List

The menu reads as a veritable feast. Most dishes I would regard as quite hearty with only a smattering of lighter/veg options. There's a bit of a fusion going on with some Indonesian/Japanese influences (all welcome). As you'll see, the portion sizes are very generous but so delicious you feel compelled to finish. 

Citrus cured salmon with split dill cream, apple, celery, cucumber, fennel, soft boiled egg and brioche. This dish is amazing, not to be missed. Everything gels together so well, or maybe I just love salmon so much. It could be the latter

Breakfast with the Sakuma's (L) and the Flying Chook (R). Miso grilled king salmon, smoked eel croquette, 63' egg, radish petit salad and kewpi mayo - a great combination, would have like the croquette to have had a tad more eel. The miso was cooked perfectly though! Our sanga: Portugese chicken, grilled zucchini, baby spinach, cheese, chilli mayo & side of fries - umm, delicious! Those fries had a great dipping sauce too

Ogre 'Happy Meal': ox-tongue, hash potatoes, cauliflower puree, pickled onion & fried egg. Hiding under the egg were slices of ox tongue, so completely tender and tasty. Another great dish, and filling

Gone Bananas: banana pancakes, palm sugar caramel, banana fritters, pandan ice cream. Okay, this is not for the faint hearted and no I did not eat this alone. The pancakes were slightly heavier than I expected. Like 'sweet' is going out of fashion, this dessert is on 'roids - hitting that sweet button with a 1-2. I. need. water.

My second Asian cousin: tapioca & coconut, burnt citrus, almonds, chia and poppy seeds. This was my favourite dessert, for sure. Light, refreshing and sort of healthy. It was gone in the blink of an eye i.e. much preferred ;)

I had heard great things from friends about Devon Café and I'm happy to say that it is different, but in a good way. My one gripe with Devon would be its soundtrack, it was quite disorientating. At times I felt like I was at a rave (at 2pm?) or in the middle of a video game. It was a very strange feeling, sipping a coffee and trying to enjoy the ox-tongue! Like the quirky kid at school, Devon excels where it counts most - food + coffee. And that's all a girl can ask for.

Caffeine, a serious business. Chemex coffee @ Devon Credit: Daily Addict

There's plenty more where that came from, including write ups from my most recent overseas trip :D

Thanks for reading!

xGourmand

Poolside

Heralding in the warmer months, there really isn't anywhere better to be than Sydney (sorry, Melbourne). Spoilt for choice between sandy beaches and innumerable harbour vantages, our love of outdoor dining is no surprise. Today I'm jotting some notes on two venues owned by husband + wife team Gary & Stephany Burton, adding a distinctive twist to the humble poolside café. I remember back to the days of drenching hot chips in salt and vinegar! Welcome to another Sydney café round-up post, it really is a never ending story...

Poolside Café

Andrew Boy Charlton Pool
1C Mrs Macquarie's Rd, The Domain

I was half expecting to be getting plastic cups by a pool but no ;) Bring on a jug of Poolside Pimm's!

A pleasant stroll away from Mrs Macquarie's Chair or Woolloomooloo wharf, Poolside Cafe takes casual dining up a notch at Andrew Boy Charlton Pool. With a liquor license and the venue even available for hire, it's a great indoor-outdoor cafe for a lazy lunch after your laps in the salt H2O. The drinks menu is a good one, order a jug of Pimm's or sip on a smoothie (I had a delicious açai berry, coconut, banana, almond and honey concoction). The menu is a la carte but can I recommend choosing one of the Chef's specials. Soak up that sun and while away the afternoon listening to Flume in a sombrero. Yeaah!

Making the most out of beautiful weather, take up a table outside and you will be offered a sombrero to wear (super stylish, ja) Source: Poolside Cafe

The wait for the food was perhaps longer than expected but this really was restaurant type food we were getting here. Et voilà:

Grilled barramundi with capsicum broth and fried zucchini flower ($29.50). A perfect size for lunch, the barramundi was soft + flakey with a crisp skin. The fried basil leaves were a nice touch and the broth (more like a capsicum passata) was mopped up without hesitation

Chef's Risotto: pea, prawn and fennel risotto ($23.50). Pretty as a picture, this is a classic risotto combination

"Signs point to yes": try Poolside next time you're scratching your head as to where to go (as I often am)

Meadow Café

Prince Alfred Park Pool
105 Chalmers St, Surry Hills

The newly redeveloped Prince Alfred Park pool in Surry Hills has opened just in time for summer and with it, Meadow Cafe. The café has a 1950s Miami feel in all the details. With generous splashes of yellow and sky blue about the place and blankets draped over the back of seats (just in case), it's definitely time to break out the cossie. This café is much more relaxed compared to Poolside, you can definitely sidle up barefoot and in your bathers and have a bite to eat. Do it.

All we wanted: for the longest time the P.A.P site was a dirty hole in the ground.  Now, a pool with a bit of style and some good eats Photo credit: Brasserie Bread

Drinkies on a warm day: açai berry (left) and banana, date, almond and vanilla (right) smoothies. Bringing back the paper straws too, v. retro

Daily special: pork and coleslaw burger with french fries. The toasted Brasserie Bread bun was delish, though I found the meat a little bit dry. No matter, those chips were good, if not great

Hope you're hungry! Roast chicken sandwich with crispy bacon, slow roasted tomato, lettuce, aioli & chips ($16)

Bright, airy and very yellow, Meadow is a win for residents and visitors alike Photo credit: Brasserie Bread

Does anyone else feel like a swim now?!

Thanks for reading!

xGourmand

Pei Modern @ Marque

For one night only, our Victorian neighbours crashed one of Sydney's best restaurants. That would be Mark Best's Marque in Surry Hills, an establishment I have been dying to try (this seemed like a good enough excuse). It's Good Food Month you see, a veritable collision of talent from across the world and the food that Aussie's can be proud of. Best has forged a splendid career in what started as a little restaurant on Crown Street and branched out to open Pei Modern in Melbourne. Under the supervision of Head Chef Matt Germanchis, P.M. has been very well received, being awarded the Best New Restaurant in the Age Food Guide 2013 and a hat to boot. 

Out front: Pei Modern in Collins Place, Melbs Source: Daily Addict

I'd seen pictures of the restaurant interior but hadn't actually stepped inside. If you didn't know where it was, you could easily stroll right past those curtained glass walls. Funnily enough the front door was locked, making entry slightly awkward. A simple table clothed dining room with egg shaped lamps adorning each table, we started the night with house purified sparkling water (and a glass of orange wine for myself). Next came that pillowy soft bread tucked in a cotton basket. If I hadn't been there for an 8 course degustation a.k.a. gastronomic blowout I wouldn't of held back - but lucky I did.

Salumi & chicken liver parfait. Popped onto out table like a picnic lunch, that bloody parfait was PARFAIT. I mean, the texture was so rich and creamy, it definitely got the palate going. The prosciutto dissolved in the mouth. I would have to say the the salami was a bit thick but yum none the less

Smoked tuna, goats curd, pomelo - this one was possibly my favourite. A delicate and light entrée this dish was very 'Quay'. The tuna was so lightly smoked, it was really like a straight sashimi, putting all those tuna nigiri I've had over the years to shame. For shame!

An eggy panorama: asparagus, egg and ash. What a way to supplement the charcoal intake (yep, it's real). I had hopes that my yolk would explode and ooze all over my 'asparagoose' but it was slightly overcooked! Dang 

Brought to the table by Best himself, another personal favourite: rockling, white beans & boudin noir. The broth was so clear and cleansing, right before you get a hit of salt from the blood sausage all washing over the fish. A well conceived dish

Duck, treviso, fermented blueberries. A pretty palette from this dish. The duck was cooked well, complemented well with the warmed blueberries and radicchio. The stems of the treviso were rather thick and chewy, are they meant to be consumed?

Hanger steak, beetroot & caramelised yoghurt. Being the 6th course I was really starting to feel it (luckily they spaced out the courses a little). For such a tricky cut of meat to perfect, this steak was gloriously charred on the outside but so tender (and rare). The yoghurt was akin to a dijon mustard without the 'up the nostrils' heat

White chocolate ganache, sorrel sorbet and mandarin. The white disc of a wafer disappeared with a 'puff' on the tongue. There are parts of this meal that I will rave about in weeks to come, one of them being this sorbet. The degustation had come to it's climax and was now floating back down. Like a sigh on a hot afternoon, this sorbet was like a dream (fresh az')

Does this even need words?! Spice doughnuts, whey butterscotch. Oh lordy lord. The crème that was tinged with mandarin was a lovely touch. Only a little morsel to stave off guilt.....

Magnifique! There we have it, a lovely evening by Pei Modern, hosted by big brother Marque. The night had a decidedly casual feel to it, despite the fine dining setting. The food speaks for itself - I'm just glad I got to sample it.

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand