Paddock to Plate - The Farm

Fresh back from a day of cherry picking (yes, I did that) in a beautiful part of the country called Young. I felt three things: happy, refreshed and stupidly full (pick one, eat one right?!). No matter that it was a balmy 35 degrees outside and a bucketful of cherries seemed to get heavier by the second. Armed with sunscreen and an iron will, no cherry tree would get the better of me and an hour and a half later, I think we were rewarded handsomely.

Today I thought I'd share with you a little clip I stumbled upon. It's produced by The Field Institute, the foodie group who publish Field Guides to Local Produce as well as the Locavore Edition. Now, in collaboration with Palate magazine they're branching out with The Farm. This is an exciting project launching in Byron Bay in the new year. Owner Will Cotterill and Mark LaBrooy (the latter a chef from Three Blue Ducks) are working together to open a farm shop and restaurant, taking the very best from what's grown on the acreage. With a tinkering soundtrack by Eleven Magpies and images of pristine  farm land - it's enough to make you want to pack up and go.

The Farm from PALATE on Vimeo.

A quick glance on their website and you can see that their vision is   rather an ambitious one - a restaurant for close to 100, macadamia and avocado orchards, hundreds of chickens, a piggery, apiaries and a cheese processing plant are just the beginning. For those looking for a tree change, The Farm is a great place to start and draw inspiration. Following in the steps of Rohan Anderson (Whole Larder Love), Rodney Dunn (The Agrarian Kitchen) and Matthew Evans (Gourmet Farmer) The Farm is championing local produce and all its perks. Now we have something to experience for ourselves, and right on our doorstep. Cheers to that.

Thanks for reading and Merry Christmas!

xGourmand

A Film About Coffee

And here we have, a visual interlude. I'll be the first to admit it, I love to harp on about coffee. I constantly find myself in pursuit of the best - wherever I go it's sort of an unofficial mission (and a heap of fun. See here and here). It's a drink that most Aussies will claim to be an expert in, and to be quite honest - we've got it pretty good Down Under. Coffee can be one of many things - the push to get up and go, a quiet moment shared in the afternoon or a battle cry against a hectic day. Filmmaker Brandon Loper has produced a film paying homage to that which we hold dear, A Film About Coffee.

A botanically inspired poster

Tracing the organic origins of the humble bean to the slow-mo pour over into your glass (at your favourite hipster café) every shot is to be savoured. This is an ode to the power of coffee across the globe - in culture, trade and economics. Journeying from Honduras and Rwanda to New York, Tokyo and Portland; Loper's goal of capturing the world of specialty coffee has been stunningly realised. Now drip, chemex and espresso fiends alike can enjoy this on their screens - it's the stuff of a coffee aficionado's dreams. View the trailer below or the film is available for rent or purchase online here.

A Film About Coffee - Trailer from Avocados and Coconuts on Vimeo.

Thanks for reading!

xGourmand

Words for a Cause

A few weeks ago I was approached to do an interview with Elizabeth Taylor (for real), the woman behind many of the Organic Food Markets across Sydney that we almost take for granted on weekends. I am grateful for this opportunity  to voice my opinions on farmers markets and the importance of food provenance (how solemn). It harks (yikes, grandma) back to the post I wrote on Farmers Markets many moons ago that you can find here. But here are my responses, originally posted on the OFM Blog on Bloggers. 

Being suckers for branding and names we LOVE yours.  How long have you been blogging and what was it about local markets and produce that started you on this journey

Thanks very much! The City Gourmand started on a whim back in July 2011, so it's had a few birthdays already, which is difficult to believe. Being one of those annoying Asian girls that take a photo of nearly everything they eat, it was almost a natural progression into the blogging world. It's essentially a visual diary of the food that I love to eat. Don't be fooled by the blog title though. Yes, I love fine dining in the iconic cities: Barcelona, London and Sydney of course but sometimes the best food comes from your own kitchen. 

An über styled version of the possibilities...Farmers' Market risotto with zucchini and their flowers Source: Taste.com

One of the best things about the food scene is the emergence of farmers' markets that have sprouted up in the most convenient locations. The Kings Cross Organic Food Market just so happens to be my local. It harks back to the days of our grandparents who would visit the markets several times a day, being without modern refrigeration. Today food travels halfway across the world to reach our shores (the concept of "food miles") defying the natural seasons. Yes, you can have pomegranates any time of year except it has travelled all the way from Afghanistan to ours shores. So the philosophy of Buy and Eat Local is actually a compelling one. What's more, we can support Australian farmers directly, cutting out the middleman. There is something special about forging a relationship with local producers or farmers. This is something that I am passionate about and write about regularly (see here).

In the shadows of the iconic El Alamein fountain (shaped like a dandelion) the Kings Cross Organic Farmers Market takes place each Saturday in Fitzroy Gardens. Photograph: El Alamein Fountain by Max Dupain c. 1962. Source: NSW Environment

What is it in particular about markets such as ours that need to be embraced and nurtured from your point of view

Well first of all, we need to spread the word about organic farmers' markets! They may not be as convenient as big chain supermarkets but your shop will certainly be fresher and of higher quality. Organic fruits and vegetables have a certain stigma attached to them, namely the price tag. The important thing to remember is you don’t have to try and shift mountains. One or two organic items per week and you’re well on the way to improving your wellbeing. Another thing is to be adventurous! Don’t be intimidated by weird or wacky ingredients. Though the Sydneysider's food vernacular is rather impressive, there are things that we automatically tend to steer clear of. Try your hand at cooking offal or a new heirloom vegetable, like kohlrabi! And if in doubt, ask the stallholder – their passion for their produce is infectious!

Or, you could always plant your own ;) Image: Little Veggie Patch Co.

Through your writings and observations, have you noticed a trend of the way people are now shopping where perhaps they are making their weekly market shopping more of an outing rather than a dash in and dash out type experience

It is true that people are ridiculously time poor these days. Life often tends to get ahead of us. An early morning visit to the local markets can be such an enjoyable experience and it’s a great way to catch a few rays. Indeed I have noticed that the markets have become a bit of a forum for families, pets and farmers alike, it is incredibly social. So the new routine is this: arrive and make a beeline for a coffee, grab a brekkie egg and bacon roll and then peruse at your leisure. Or maybe a few quick fire rounds of Guess Who if you're in KX! I tend to buy as much as I can be it meat, fruits or veg from organic producers and supplement my shop at a grocer only if I have to. The farmers markets are a wonderful way to slow down, if only for an hour or so and I think that many are realizing this.

<Insert day> long lunch, three words that bring joy to my ears! Photo: Kinfolk Volume V via Sanctuary blog

What is one of your more favoured meals to prepare using fresh produce bought at market

On a lazy weekend, stay true to the KISS principle (Keep it Simple, Stupid). With minimal interference to such lovely ingredients you can make an amazing spread for lunch or dinner. In the same vein, I love making ‘Market Bruschetta’ with bits and pieces I’ve bought from the market. Anything goes really…A few slices of sourdough, prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella, heirloom tomatoes, fresh herbs, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil et voilà! I’m making myself hungry just typing this!

The colours of the heirloom tomatoes are just killer, and they taste unlike any other tomato you've ever tasted. Yes.

If you had to sum up the “vibe” of shopping at local produce markets in 5 words what would they be

These aren’t necessarily ‘vibe’ specific but community, buzz, abundance, delicious and feast!

Fin

And now, for a rather lengthy (but not waffley) P.S. ...

Continuing on with all this goodness there are a few great campaigns being run this month and next:

1. Just Food (a start-up on Pozible)

Image credit: The Locavore Edition

A bit of a team effort between The Locavore Edition and the Australian Food Sovereignty Alliance, Just Food (how many hyperlinks can I put in this sentence?) is the documentary that they had hoped to make, thanks to crowd funding and the undeniable powers of social media  Well, that little idea is now coming to fruition - the target amount of AU$25000 was reached, a measly 3 weeks into the campaign! 

Orange Tree Blues from growing change on Vimeo.

Growing healthy orange trees is hard work. Killing them is even harder.

Short documentary produced for the Australian Food Sovereignty Alliance.

Funnily enough, I was actually at Eveleigh Markets whilst Costa was filming this trailer with the crew. (Get) Right in the thick of it! There are 7 days to go (deadline 3rd October) and the extra money will go towards supporting Australian farmers across the country in getting their stories out there. Pledge here before time is up my friend.

2. Give a Fork!

Image credit: Sustainable Table

Apart from the snazzy title, Sustainable Table will be launching a week long campaign (7-14th October) encouraging the general public to host their own events, raising money to support developing sustainable food systems. Sadly, the idea seems quite fantastical in our modern society. In the event's inaugural year, seafood is on the agenda. The documentary The End of the Line is a great crash course on the topic of overfishing.

Trailer for documentary, The End of the Line tackling the subject of overfishing

If I have whet your appetite for ethical choices and generosity then my work here is done.

Thanks for reading, and pls donate!
xGourmand

Jiro Dreams of Sushi

I don't remember my dreams *sad face* but odds are that like Chef Jiro Ono, I also dream of sushi. I'm playing film critic this week:  two hits in 3 days (the first was Take This Waltz) must mean that I'm on fire, obviously. I first heard about Jiro Dreams of Sushi from The Thousands guide back in May. As soon as I saw that, I was itching to see it. As luck would have it (not), it was showing in one cinema in Sydney. So I had to wait till I was back, praying that it was still showing! I was really glad I got to see this gem. Here's why...

Warning: you will never look at sushi the same again. Though, it's probably for the best (shame on you, sushi train)

The movie poster acts as a visual menu - how delightful. And Jiro takes his rightful place in the limelight. Those macro photographs but mine to shame! Source: Berlin Film Society

Directed by filmmaker David Gelb, the film tracks the rise and rise of Jiro Ono and his family run sushi restaurant in Ginza, Sukiyabashi Jiro. 

Accolades - Jiro Ono was the first (and oldest) sushi chef to receive 3 Michelin stars. He has been described as the world's best sushi chef by the likes of Joel Robuchon and Anthony Bourdain and Japan has declared him as a national treasure. His hardwork and dedication once saw him receive an award during the day, only to return to the restaurant for dinner service that night. He is 86 years old and has had the same routine everyday for 75 years. Amazing.

Who - Shokunin (skilled craftsmen) Jiro Ono and his eldest son Yoshikazu operate Sukiyabashi Jiro. There is also a 2 Michelin-starred branch in Roppongi Hills run by Jiro's youngest son, Takashi. Some diners find they get too nervous eating in front of Jiro and would prefer the more relaxed atmosphere at Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi (lol). Jiro watches you as you eat each piece, noting your handedness (to place the sushi on the correct side), gauging your reaction - too much pressure!

Why so serious? The sushi dynasty of sorts. I loved hearing the scared apprentice stories. They really cop it (workload wise) too: they get to prepare the scalding hot towels (a right of passage) and tenderize the octopus by hand  (read: massage for 40-50 mins, the poor sod!)  Photo: Benjamin Oakley Wilson

Yoshikazu is the heir to the throne at Sukiyabashi Jiro. His father's reputation precedes him though and they are rather big (actually humungous) shoes/geta sandals to fill. Unfortunately for him, he has lived in his father's shadow for 30 years and will be compared to him for the rest of his life. But that's just how the cookie crumbles. 

Where - It's a tiny 10 seater found in the basement of a Tokyo Office Building. The restaurant is in the traditional Japanese style, without bells or whistles. The chefs prepare each morsel in quick succession in front of you. Each piece must be eaten straight away. The sushi speaks for itself. 

In succession, Chef Jiro Ono, his eldest son Yoshikazu and the 3IC (but more on him later). Photo credit: MovieCheeks

What - the Omakase menu or "Chef's recommended Special Course" is essentially a degustation of 20 freshly prepared sushi. This will set you back a tidy ~¥30,000 (US $370). Woo, nearly 20 bucks a pop - could you handle that? Probably one of the cheapest 3 Michelin-starred meals you can get!

I love the attention that Gelb paid to detail - the intricate processes, the delicacy of forming the rice in the hand, the gloss of the top coat of sauce (lush!). Gelb used super slow motion to great effect. It felt so reverential and like  watching artists at work. Which is true, to a certain extent. My favourite moments came when sushi was placed on the black serving dishes where it literally 'sighed onto the plate'. OH. MY. GOD.

One exceptional scene was the 'sushi concerto'. Played out to Mozart's Piano Concerto no. 21, one of the sittings at Sukiyabashi Jiro is filmed with such flair. The classical soundtrack was just perfect with Bach's Cello Suite no. 1 (Prelude) to top it all off. Each of the 20 courses is shown from start to finish and you are instantly transported into the restaurant, waiting with anticipation on one of the stools. Juuust magic.

Cue photos of glorious sushi:

Knock me sideways: I had no idea there were 3 different types of sushi tuna. I only knew of sashimi or cooked! From a bluefin there is akami (lean), chu-toro (medium) and o-toro (fatty). Well, now ya know...

Ebi: shrimp. So simple but oh so delicious...ah!

It's Anago! Oh my favourite...eel. I was so pleased to see this on the menu, this is the one I get every time. Photo: Hamsap Sukebe

La pièce de résistance: tamago. The final course of the omakase. Amazingly, it is only at the end of a 10 year apprenticeship that a training chef can learn to make the egg sushi. For, 3IC whom I mentioned above it took him 3 or 4 months and hundreds of attempts before Jiro gave his approval. At this, the apprentice cried tears of happiness. Their passion and unyielding drive to improve and please Jiro is incredible.

The aim of the game - it's simple really (sure sure)...serving sushi at it's "ideal moment of deliciousness". Rice is served at body temperature and fanned until it is just so. Nori sheets are tempered with heat from a grill. Mackerel is filleted when the fish is still alive (the fish was literally still gaping in the frame). And their knives were like samurai swords! Double edged blades with inscriptions down one side...forget Kill Bill!

The best of the best, Sir! - each providore that works for Jiro was a specialist in their field. The tuna man only sold tuna (watch for the tuna auction, it's a flurry of awesome), and would examine the quality of the meat by torch light. Each morning, after Yoshikazu returns from Tsukiji market with the fish for the day (personal bicycle delivery!), Jiro would taste the fish to ensure it met his exacting standards. The rice supplier had a special type just for Jiro. Jiro notes in the movie that the guy knew so much about rice that sometimes he thought he was making it up! 

Language barrier - the staff only speak Japanese (I wouldn't want it any other way) so it is best if you go with someone that speaks at least conversational Japanese. What a shame to miss out on their witty banter! Dang. The film is subtitled which did get a little annoying, I didn't want to be reading all the time. I want to look at the food!

The dilemma - almost as an afterthought, a few minutes were devoted to the issue of overfishing. The Japanese are notorious as the worst offenders, as whaling continues with so-called 'scientific purposes'. Yes, the staff acknowledge that it is an issue but without fish, their business wouldn't exist! So what do we do?! The doco End of the Line tackles overfishing and the devastating effect that it has on our oceans' ecosystem.

The verdict - sometimes, we need to hear about the little guy, the little fish in the culinary pond. Who needs your Ferrans, your Blumenthals and your Changs with their hocus pocus when you've got guys (and gals, I assume) who have complete mastery over the one thing that they do best. Another example that springs to mind is Pizzeria Da Michele in Napoli that specializes in 2 types of pizza: margherita and marinara (since 1870, punks). Ooh the memories :)

Let me tell you that Gelb has done a magnificent job. I LOVED this movie, and its not just because I'm a sushi nut (hey, I'm the first to admit it). Jiro Dreams of Sushi is the ultimate tribute to his craft. It is a feast for the senses (too bad you can't taste!), executed with a deft touch.

Consistency, precision and flavour. Nailed it! Photo credit: Hamsap Sukebe 

I feel like there is going to be a rush for bookings after the movie's release. I found a real-life review of the restaurant here. What a brilliant advertising campaign! Wait lists were 1 month when the movie was filmed but are about to blow out to much longer no doubt. Now everyone feels they must try Chef Ono's nigiri before he retires. Chef Ono has built a stirling reputation as a shokunin. More than half a century later, he is as disciplined as he ever was and works to live. Everyday he and his shokunin strive to do better every day which keeps them at the top of their game. I think Yoshikazu will do just fine with the legacy left by his father, I have faith.

If I didn't already have you hooked ;) Here's the trailer:

Happy days! I'm done. Thanks for reading! M