Sushisamba

If there's one venue in London that's been hit by the hype machine, it's Sushisamba. Seats have never been such hot property than at this fusion restaurant nestled near the top of Heron Tower. Downstairs to its decidedly tame buddy Duck & Waffle, Sushisamba lets its hair down in a tumble of bamboo and hanging light globes. If you're confused by the name, you're not alone. Describing itself as blending Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian influences I see this going only one of two ways: to soaring heights or a crushing low. And so the bar is set, and it's about 39 storeys high.

Yellowtail Sashimi Tiradito with lemongrass and jalapeño. The yellowtail was a bit on the fishy side for me i.e. could be fresher (shame!). The dipping sauce gave a nice spicy kick however

The Sushisamba name has officially gone global with venues also in Miami beach (well, duh) and Vegas. As you stroll casually into this vast space, you feel like you're at a nightclub in broad daylight...Ou est le dancefloor? CetraRuddy who took charge of the interior design really went to town with a restaurant floor bordering on the excess. I do appreciate the leather 'luggage strap' seats, they look great (and are really comfy). This is a restaurant designed for A-listers and Ibiza-type party people, and I notice the lounge area perfectly positioned for people watching. As for me? I'm hoping there's a bit of substance amongst all this style. I just want some decent nosh (it's all I ask for)!

If it's wow factor they were going for, they have it in spades. The rather dramatic bamboo and light feature sets the scene for a different kind of dining experience... Source: Pure Consult

One glance at the menu and you know it's not for the faint hearted, not only for the unusual flavour combinations but also the prices. Prepare to do some serious damage. If you fancy trying the ishi yaki (grilled) wagyu it'll only set you back a tidy 49 pounds ;) And the serves are not big here, let me tell you. If there's one thing that I will give credit for, it's concept. All those preconceived ideas about food in London being dull and lifeless are about to come crashing down.

Crispy taquitos: wagyu, avocado and shichimi mayonnaise. These were a standout of the meal for me. Delicioso! The combination of wagyu and avocado were divine. This was the perfect dish with a generous squeeze of lime. Must. Try.

Tuna seviche with pomegranate leche de tigre (say what?), maiz morado (translation?), wasabi peas and basil. I thought this dish looked stunning when it came out, like edible artwork. Although the foam was rendered a bit superfluous once it disappeared. After a while the flavours in the seviche sort of amalgamated together, so it ends up all tasting the same with an overwhelming, vinegary aftertaste - am I painting a picture here?

Ezo samba roll: soy marinated salmon, asparagus, onion, chive, sesame, tempura crunch, soy paper and wasabi mayo. Who needs nori when you've got soy paper? This was quite an interesting element. I could happily have eaten this roll with raw salmon (instead of seared). A bit more mayo would have been ideal

Pork ribs, BBQ miso, pickled yuzu apple. What can I say, you can't go wrong with meat that pulls of the bone like this did and a bit of stickiness from the glaze that coats the fingers...yes.

Teriyaki poussin, japanese-style mayonnaise, yuzu kosho. Poussin is basically a fancy name for a young chicken. The salty soy hit from the teriyaki sauce went beautifully well with the mayonnaise (which was itself a high point). A good effort, and the meat was well cooked

The Brazilian-Peruvian-Japanese fusion thing is admirably conceived and executed. As if going through some sort of identity crisis, the only similarity I can see between those cuisines is the use of raw fish (i.e. sashimi and ceviche). It still remains a little on the weird side and 'niche' for me, but I have to applaud the effort of it all. The plating for one is some of the best I've seen; full of vibrancy and delicate touches. Perhaps this has come at the expense of developing flavour. The more traditional Japanese dishes, the sushi and sashimi were nothing to write home about sadly. But look, it's difficult to criticise this emerging empire which is doing so fantastically well i.e. book well ahead. As a unique dining 'experience' Sushisamba certainly gets top marks; just be wary of becoming a victim of the hype.

My rather amateur photog effort - I'm blaming the equipment here! Haha

Thanks for reading!

xGourmand

Sagra

Sagra evokes a celebration of Italian cuisine. Taking its name from the numerous local festivals occurring around regional Italy, this is a neighbourhood diner with a difference. Channelling the very best of Nonna's cooking, Sagra creates seasonal dishes with a menu that changes weekly. Chef owner Nigel Ward takes great pride in process, baking fresh bread in-house and doing their own whole-animal butchery (you might've seen those photos of him with a lamb slung rather awkwardly over his shoulders on the interwebs). As is often the case for me, this was just one of those small scale restaurants I've been busting to try.

Source: Luisa Brimble for Broadsheet Sydney

The vibe is pared back, minimalist and decidedly casual - it beckons you in for a light lunch or candlelit dinner. Sagra sits unassumingly in a corner block on Stanley Street, also home to iconic Bill & Toni's and Bar Reggio close-by. Sometimes when you can't be bothered to cook, you secretly want the comforts of a home-style dish, and Sagra fits the bill perfectly. It's a little Italian oasis for those who don't make it as far to Leichhardt, or Rome for that matter! It was probably a good sign we were sitting next to a couple of Italians animatedly chatting away!

Light and airy, this is the place to be for a sunny Sydney lunch, no? Source: Luisa Brimble for Broadsheet Sydney

The menu makes a whole lot of sense, making it's way up from antipasti, primi to secondi (and lets not forget dolce!). Mix and match as you please, they've also got daily specials. And on the first Wednesday of the month, they run regional 4-course dinners for the bargain basement price of $50 (rad). Italian staff run the floor, some with such thick accents that there was almost a language barrier at times (my bad). My only issue was the limited choices of wine by the glass. I would love more than 2 choices! Note that portion sizes are on the small side, so be prepared to add-on (liberally). 

Violetta artichokes, capers, parmesan & radish. This was a lovely palate cleansing salad with the perfect amount of tartness and crunch (and also I'm a huge fangirl of artichokes so it's an instant winner)

Fried mussels with aïoli. A daily special; something a bit unusual, a bit different (in the words of Kath & Kim). Let's face it, most things that are deep fried taste good and these mussels were no exception

Pumpkin & goats curd ravioli, pinenuts & sage butter. A classic of the classic pasta dishes, this is a combination that has stood the test of time. The pumpkin filling was ridiculously creamy with super delicate pasta

Rabbit agnolotti with sage butter. On the meagre side but packing a punch, I couldn't get over how good the pasta itself was...like silk! A rabbit ragu is the perfect pasta filling for the cooler months. A small but satisfying portion, the boys definitely need another dish to back this up!

Passionfruit meringue, a simple dessert with a good balance of sweet and tart thanks to the passionfruit

Lemon Tart, caramelised on top for sure this was a decent version although I found the custard filling a little on the thick side. I keep having flashbacks to Heston Blumenthal's lemon tart (which is rather unfortunate, for those guys)

On the food front, I think Sagra certainly delivers and with reasonable prices to boot. As diners I think what we look for is food that is tasty, and enhanced by the use of seasonal produce treated with respect. In this current bipolar hospitality industry, I do hope Sagra has the staying power because it's a little gem. 

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

Snapshot: Broadway Market

I was completely charmed by Broadway Market, surprise surprise. Never mind the hike across town in the blustery wind, as I walked up Benjamin Close the heady aromas of spice, barbecue and coffee were enough to woo me. Sold! Broadway Market is an Aladdin's cave of culinary treats; it was tough even choosing what to try (1st world problems, much?)! The brilliant thing is that it's a bit more manageable in size (as opposed to the oppression of Borough Market) and has a more communal vibe. If you live down Hackney way, as more and more hipster gen-y types are favouring, Broadway Market is surely a highlight of the week. By the end of it I was barely mobile, but grinning ear to ear. 

As a photoessay of sorts, here are the providores worth a mention:

On a rare blue sky day, we rug up and take a stroll...

Climpson & Sons

67 Broadway Market, London E8 4PH

Now this is a sight to behold...empty space. I kid you not, the photo I actually took was just of the backs of about 20 heads. Not so good (but good for them!) Source: Two Lights

Climpson & Sons are perhaps a tad overrepresented at Broadway Market with both a stall and café in prime position. With little more than a stools by the window and a La Marzocco coffee machine running flat chat. Climpson & Sons is committed to delivering proper coffee to the Eastside masses. And in case you were wondering, yes they roast their beans. Grab a takeaway and make yourself cosy in London Fields for the people watching. Don't expect much in the way of nibblies though, but why would you when the market awaits!

An exceedingly frothy cappucino, and a pretty decent brew all things considered (the queues 4 deep in the café perhaps?). It ranks third on the list for me ;)

In their enthusiasm they have penned a sign for WILD GARLIG (yes, a 'Swedish' varietal of garlic shoots...)! But who cares when the going is this fresh. And a bunch you say? It's whatever you want it to be...

Cheese please: having a laff over the plenitude of cheese and happiness in this 2x2

F. Cooke

9 Broadway Market, London E8 4PH

Like a moth to a flame, I was there

Walking up to the immaculately polished front windows of F. Cooke, a rather comforting feeling comes over you, like the fold of a doona. This East London institution established in 1900 (no kidding) is still dishing up hot and jellied eels just like they used to. The floor is sprinkled with sawdust and the decor hasn't changed for eons, it certainly stands at odds to the modern hipster vibes everywhere else in Hackney. And another thing, how can you fault a recipe that has been perfected for more years than you've spent on the planet?! I used to be a stickler for Japanese style smoked eel but I might have been turned to the dark side. 

This dish changed all my preconceived notions about the goodness of eel, I have basically only eaten smoked or cooked Asian style so this was unexpectedly good. The eel was gorgeous and tender in a rather mild sauce so the meat is definitely the star of the show. And at that price in the most expensive city in the world? You'd be crazy not to come back

Fresh mushies from the aptly named Sporeboys (nailed it with the name alone!). If I had any room left after that scrumptious eel dish I would have demolished a mushroom sandwich. It looked fantastisch

Meringue Girls

After Sporeboys, come Meringue Girls. This cake looks suspiciously familiar - Black Star Pastry anyone? If those toppings are anything to go by, the things looks damned delicious!

For some random reason I chanced on Meringue Girls on the interwebs before I left for the UK. If there's one thing I've noticed, they certainly have a knack for presentation (and piping, apparently). With their signature droplet meringues in a multitude of pastel shades, they've now published a cookbook which is making small waves over at amazon.com. I mean who knew that meringues alone were marketable. They've created a sugared-egg-white fuelled frenzy over here (the kids have gone berserk).

More colour-ways than a Pantone flip book

Like a medieval smorgasbord the choice are abundant and heavy on the olives

Hansen & Lydersen

Hypnotising: they seem to know what they're doing around here...

Todd Selby smashed it out of the park with his video featuring Ole M Hansen of Hansen & Lydersen back in the day. I was so impressed I even did a post (#regram) about it over here. Hansen & Lydersen specialise in smoked salmon based on a recipe developed back in 1923. The salmon are farmed between the Norwegian Sea and the North Atlantic and prepared within 48 hours of being caught to ensure (extreme) freshness. The end result after being cold smoked with juniper and beech wood is quite frankly, unbelievably good. The supermarket versions just don't cut the mustard.

A rather tiny and expensive morsel of some of the best salmon I've ever tasted. This version is oily, with a smoothness that lolls on the tongue. You can tell this is the good stuff because it doesn't have the pungency of 'fish'

Did I just hear/smell/see spit roast?! I think I did!!!

Violet

Smile, you're on candid camera! It's like bunting central over here...

Funny that, how I always gravitate to sweets. Violet Cakes was another feature in Todd Selby's 2nd book the Edible Selby. The range of baked goods here at the stall and their shop in Hackney is all rather impressive with enough cupcakes, cinnamon scrolls and whoopie pies to make your eyes water (they're happy tears). Cate Ptak and her team are a favourite at the market, with their sweet treats consistently selling out. Everything just looks so moreish!

A red velvet beauty of a cake in my hot little hand. Can I just say that I am properly stuffed at this point?! The cake was simply divine, nice and moist. The cream cheese icing, although delicious was probably a little bit too generous/heavy handed?

Again, I am astounded to find out this is actually a thing. Marshmallows sold in such a way, it completely blows my mind. Made by the London Marshmallow Company, no less! They took marshmallow flavour and texture to a whole other delightful (and squidgy) level

The Ginger Beer Engine: locally made in Hackney. If only it was about 20 degrees hotter, then it would have really hit the spot. Delicious and buzzy in the mouth nonetheless!

There's always room for the British classics. Scotch eggs and pork pies do a roaring trade at Finest Fayre. And who would have thought, there's even a market for a vegetarian version. It goes against everything a real Scotch egg stands for...MEAT

A classic basket-case, well that's what I felt like after I rolled out of the place

Thanks Broadway Market, it was fun :D

And thank you for reading!

xGourmand