Sagra

Sagra evokes a celebration of Italian cuisine. Taking its name from the numerous local festivals occurring around regional Italy, this is a neighbourhood diner with a difference. Channelling the very best of Nonna's cooking, Sagra creates seasonal dishes with a menu that changes weekly. Chef owner Nigel Ward takes great pride in process, baking fresh bread in-house and doing their own whole-animal butchery (you might've seen those photos of him with a lamb slung rather awkwardly over his shoulders on the interwebs). As is often the case for me, this was just one of those small scale restaurants I've been busting to try.

Source: Luisa Brimble for Broadsheet Sydney

The vibe is pared back, minimalist and decidedly casual - it beckons you in for a light lunch or candlelit dinner. Sagra sits unassumingly in a corner block on Stanley Street, also home to iconic Bill & Toni's and Bar Reggio close-by. Sometimes when you can't be bothered to cook, you secretly want the comforts of a home-style dish, and Sagra fits the bill perfectly. It's a little Italian oasis for those who don't make it as far to Leichhardt, or Rome for that matter! It was probably a good sign we were sitting next to a couple of Italians animatedly chatting away!

Light and airy, this is the place to be for a sunny Sydney lunch, no? Source: Luisa Brimble for Broadsheet Sydney

The menu makes a whole lot of sense, making it's way up from antipasti, primi to secondi (and lets not forget dolce!). Mix and match as you please, they've also got daily specials. And on the first Wednesday of the month, they run regional 4-course dinners for the bargain basement price of $50 (rad). Italian staff run the floor, some with such thick accents that there was almost a language barrier at times (my bad). My only issue was the limited choices of wine by the glass. I would love more than 2 choices! Note that portion sizes are on the small side, so be prepared to add-on (liberally). 

Violetta artichokes, capers, parmesan & radish. This was a lovely palate cleansing salad with the perfect amount of tartness and crunch (and also I'm a huge fangirl of artichokes so it's an instant winner)

Fried mussels with aïoli. A daily special; something a bit unusual, a bit different (in the words of Kath & Kim). Let's face it, most things that are deep fried taste good and these mussels were no exception

Pumpkin & goats curd ravioli, pinenuts & sage butter. A classic of the classic pasta dishes, this is a combination that has stood the test of time. The pumpkin filling was ridiculously creamy with super delicate pasta

Rabbit agnolotti with sage butter. On the meagre side but packing a punch, I couldn't get over how good the pasta itself was...like silk! A rabbit ragu is the perfect pasta filling for the cooler months. A small but satisfying portion, the boys definitely need another dish to back this up!

Passionfruit meringue, a simple dessert with a good balance of sweet and tart thanks to the passionfruit

Lemon Tart, caramelised on top for sure this was a decent version although I found the custard filling a little on the thick side. I keep having flashbacks to Heston Blumenthal's lemon tart (which is rather unfortunate, for those guys)

On the food front, I think Sagra certainly delivers and with reasonable prices to boot. As diners I think what we look for is food that is tasty, and enhanced by the use of seasonal produce treated with respect. In this current bipolar hospitality industry, I do hope Sagra has the staying power because it's a little gem. 

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

Duck & Waffle

Duck & Waffle. Just in a name you have a dynamite combination and it's making me hungry. This restaurant prides itself on it's signature dish; does the name give it away? Expectations are pretty high my friend. What's also high is this restaurant, sitting pretty on the 40th floor of Heron tower on Bishopsgate - your ears pop on the way up, and your stomach does acrobatics at the rapid descent in the glass elevator. It makes for stunning views though, the vastness of the London metropolis reduced to moving specks below.

At the end of your night, bid (a reluctant) farewell to the dirty kebab and say hello to Duck + Waffle. Don't mind if I do...

To put it lightly, Duck & Waffle has been doing a booming trade since its opening in 2012. C and I were fortunate enough to get a 9pm dinner reservation (practically bedtime). As soon as you walk through the door, it's clear that no expense has been spared for the space. It's a pretty gorgeous restaurant, playing hand in hand with the commanding panorama out of those floor to ceiling windows. From each table you have full view into the open kitchen from where you can ogle duck and waffles aplenty. A rippling yellow panelled ceiling gives the impression that you're in motion, a nod to Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. 

Interiors by New York architectural firm CetraRuddy. Swish and swish, not a bad looking place! Credit: Duck & Waffle

Executive chef Daniel Doherty and his team are in charge of a kitchen that operates 24/7, no joke. It is open at all hours of the night, making it ideal for a late night stop-off (won't be needing a reservation then!). The menu sees influences from European cooking but using local British ingredients. A huge selection of small plates like roasted octopus or braised pig cheeks are ideal to share. Or you can go all out and order the larger dishes like grilled lobster or whole roasted sea bass (umm, yum?!).

Half a dozen fine de claire oysters with shallot vinaigrette. These beauties were so delicious (and cost a mint). So fresh that I didn't even bother with the vinaigrette in the end - so indulgent

Steaming hot: Essex beets, goat's curd, hazelnuts, capers, sherry vinegar. Can I just say that this was an amazing salad. Yes, quite homestyle and comforting but it just made me smile. Beetroot and goat's cheese together is pretty much failsafe. Happiness in a mouthful (or several)

Duck & waffle: crispy leg confit, fried duck egg, mustard maple syrup i.e. what we'd all been waiting for. Perhaps not the most elegantly plated dish I've ever seen but it does the job. I must say that the confit duck was on the dryer side and the waffle a bit doughy *sad face*. The dressing on the other hand was lovely (the dish needed the moisture!). Maybe everyone had talked this dish up and up and up and my expectations were too high? Anyway, it fell short of the mark for me. Eaten together on a good night though and I think it would have been smashing

Duck & Waffle certainly has its fair share of wow factor. Set in such a magnificent spot, you could almost distract yourself from the shortfalls in the kitchen. But regardless of what I say you can be assured to have a fantastic time - day, night or in the wee hours of the morning (hit with the sudden realisation that you've never felt more hungry than you do now, or have an intense craving for duck + waffle). The intentions are there; wholesome British food cooked with minimal fuss to please the masses. It's certainly worth a try, if only to order that one dish ;)

The tallest restaurant and bar in the UK (even dwarfing the gherkin!) = bragging rights Credit: Duck & Waffle

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

A Kinfolk Salad

I don't know about you, but I adore receiving things in the mail. Snail mail, as it's come to be referred. Call me a nana but in an age where everything is about instant gratification, a small reminder of the old ways is a welcome relief. The day I was delivered The Kinfolk Table was a particularly exciting one. A self -proclaimed disciple of the Kinfolk camp, their philosophy is all about simplifying in the best possible sense. Singing the virtues of the shared table where time itself is the greatest luxury.

To my excitement, the Kinfolk Table is quite a tome to be pored over again and again Photo: Kinfolk

I want to cook everything in this book, the recipes are not there to challenge or dazzle you with technique but to simply enjoy the process: the market shop, the meander in the kitchen almost an idle.  Here is the first thing I made from the cookbook at home, it was a pleasure to put together (because that's all it was really) and to devour. 

Hearty Barley Salad with Broiled Feta and Tomatoes
Recipe by Nathalie Schwer

The finished product, a serving of deliciousness - and sort of healthy too!

Ingredientsss
Don't let this longish list of ingredients deter you!

230g feta cut into small cubes
230g small ripe tomatoes, halved
70g pitted black olives
1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs e.g. rosemary, oregano, thyme
60ml (1/4 cup) extra virgin olive oil
200g pearled barley
2 cups water
Salt
2 ripe avocados, cut into cubes
455g marinated artichokes, in wedges
1 cucumber, seeded and chopped
2 cups fresh basil leaves, thinly sliced
30ml (2 tbspn) fresh lemon juice
Freshly ground pepper

Method
1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees, position rack in centre of oven

2. Combine feta, tomatoes, olives, herbs and olive oil on a foil lined baking tray and toss to mix

3. Bake for 25 mins or until the feta has melted and the tomatoes soft and brown

Oh man, just imagining this as a tart/quiche filling right now...

4. Meanwhile, bring barley, water and 1/2 tspn salt to boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, cover and simmer for 20 mins or until tender. Fluff barley with fork and transfer to a salad bowl

Believe it or not, I haven't actually cooked with pearl barley before. I had to buy it from the trusty health food shop up the road. It has a texture very similar to brown rice, slightly nutty

5. Add avocados, artichokes, cucumber, basil and lemon juice to barley and toss to combine

Any other day, I would happily sit down and polish these off just as they are

6. Stir in the feta mixture. Season to taste with S & P

Be aware that feta tends to be quite salty so don't be too heavy handed with seasoning

7. Serve warm with bread and/or charcuterie (whatever's lying around) and a glass of wine

A hodge podge of veg and colour! I found the feta let off a lot of oil once baked, add the pan juices to the salad with care

There's a lot going on with this salad flavour wise. The feta offers a real kick that is tempered by the sweetness of the tomatoes and cucumber. Add in those divine artichokes and the occasional olive saltiness. The freshness of the basil features with almost every mouthful. The recipe apparently serves 4 but I stretched it to 6 pretty generous serves. Great as a party starter!

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand

Snapshot: Sydney cafés II

On a drizzly Monday afternoon, I'm happy to be relishing in the great indoors. I thought it was about time I did another café post seeing as they're starting to number in the squillions across Sydney. Today I'm jotting a few things about a Sydney café that needs no introductions, receiving a toque by the GFG 2014 in its first year of opening (scoring 15/20 by T.D.). 

Kepos Street Kitchen

96 Kepos Street, Redfern

Sprouting up in the old Strangers with Candy Restaurant site on the Waterloo side of Redfern, Kepos Street Kitchen is already winning praise with locals and the media. Chef Michael Rantissi, formerly of Bathers' Pavilion is at the kitchen's helm, adding some Middle Eastern flair to the expansive café menu. Another thing worth mentioning is that they are also open for dinner Wednesday - Saturday. So for a reasonably priced night out i.e. mains under $30, KSK is a good bet. If you can get a table that is!

Jill Dupleix rates it: Soft baked eggs and tomato shakshuka, coriander tahini, sourdough $15. A signature dish of sorts, this is a fantastic way to start the day. Oozy baked eggs and a fair whack of paprika, plus carbohydrate for mopping up is mandatory.

Tucked away on a leafy corner in Redfern, Kepos Street Kitchen is the place to be rain, hail or shine. Photo credit: Kepos Street Kitchen

With a pared back interior, KSK welcomes you with open arms and a rather impressive spread of cakes and other bakes on the front counter but more on that goodness a bit later ;). It really is a miniscule place, with the kitchen hidden in what looks like the garage. Be warned that on weekends you could be in for a bit of a wait, it gets rather packed rather quickly. Early is probably best if you can even fathom setting an alarm for a Saturday...

It's curious that I've tried coffee from the Grounds without actually having been there. For the record, it ain't bad but I refuse to queue up over an hour for breakfast!

Tunisian style seared yellow fin tuna, eggplant, tomato, cucumber, egg, potato, harissa dressing $19. This is a very generous portion size and ideal for sharing (or stealing). The tuna is largely left alone which makes it all the better. Lashings of fresh herbs liven it up - a perfect choice for luncheon

Steak sandwich, caramelised onion jam, wilted spinach, aïoli, roasted tomatoes $19. Something would be amiss if there wasn't some sort of burger or steak santa on the menu. This one is on the larger side, so an obvious for the guys. That melty cheese is making me weak at the knees.

You know me, I couldn't resist a little early afternoon tea...

If I was motivated enough to have this photo printed and framed, I'd do it. I'm already reminiscing about this cake (cray cray!!!). A triumph at the hands of the pastry chef, this hazelnut torte is crowned with strawberries and cream and chockablock with hazelnuts. So incredibly good without drowning your palate in sugar. Give it a go, I dare you.

KSK churros, salted caramel. Call it overkill if you so wish but I thought this was rather unmissable from the menu. More shell than anything else, the churros were good though could have been a bit fluffier on the inside. The salted caramel thing is a total fad thing but I went with it that day. 

This is a particularly hedonistic close-up. Enjoy.

If I had my way, I could probably eat my way through the day at Kepos Street Kitchen. Rantissi does a brilliant job of lifting the reputation of the neighbourhood café. Good coffee, great food - it really is a simple formula but often so difficult to execute (in this economic climate, amongst other things). The rave reviews about KSK certainly weren't lying. Take a gander, have a taste.

And now a quick recipe to whiz up in minutes, literally

KSK Green Tahini recipe from Delicious magazine (April 2013)
Suggested to be served with felafel or to dollop on that lush shakshuka! One batch makes a 3/4 cup

Ingredientsss
2 bunches coriander, roughly chopped
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 garlic cloves
1/3 cup tahini paster

Method
1. Whiz coriander and lemon juice in a blender until combined
2. Add garlic and tahini, then blend until smooth
3. Season with 1 tsp sea salt

Have fun and thanks for reading!
xGourmand

Road Test #1

Hi all,
I thought I'd share with you some of my escapades in the kitchen. Not wanting to toot my own trumpet or anything but I really don't mind cooking at home to save a buck, or 30. No wonder the restaurant biz is in struggle city *sad face*. Being a student, I am used to cranking out whopping big vats of so called "one-pot-wonders" to last me the next 3 or 4 nights. Is that so bad? 


Here's a yee-old faithful pasta dish:


This one caught my eye from the Fare Exchange article from Australian Gourmet Traveller magazine (April 2012). This magazine my friends is gold. And great if you're looking for restaurant/recipe/travel "inspo" (eucch, don't you hate that slang). It's a rigatoni with braised pork, tomato and olives from the Sculpture Garden Restaurant (National Gallery; Canberra, ACT). I've posted the recipe at the tail end

Letting the stove do all the work: the pork is everything here and MUST be tender! I recommend at least 2+ hours (the recipe says 3 in the oven but I cooked on the stovetop instead). If you have a pressure cooker at home well, you're in business aren't you ;)

A true likeness, or so I'd like to think! My food styling pedigree is basically non-existent but I reckon the dish tasted pretty good! The olives are a perfect salty hit to the shredded pork. That's a big plate of pasta you got there (i hear you say)...why yes, yes it is.

On the side:
It may seem basic but sometimes salads can be glorious. I'm sure Damien Pignolet will attest to this. This one is by chef Matt Wilkinson from Pope Joan and Circa(look, to be honest I really should just up and move to Melbourne), who has recently published a veggie friendly cookbook, "Mr Wilkinson's Favourite Vegetables". Okay, so it sounds like a children's picture book, but never mind that! The recipe was featured in the March 2012 issue of Australian GT and is posted at the end

Fresh and simple. That's all I could really ask for at the moment and Matt has hit the nail on the head. The dressing has but 4 ingredients and is incredibly tasty - only lashings of it will do.

Pork riga

Ingredientsss

1.5 tbspn olive oil

1 onion + leek + celery stalk, chopped finely

350g pancetta, chopped finely

150ml Madeira (I survived without this)

800g canned crushed tomatoes

1kg boneless pork shoulder, cut in half (or smaller to reduce braising time)

200g black Ligurian olives, pitted

30g butter, coarsely chopped

1.5 tbspn marjoram leaves, plus extra to serve

750g died rigatoni

Finely grated parmesan to serve

Method

1. Preheat oven to 120 degrees C. Heat olive oil in large casserole dish over medium heat. Add onion, leek and celery, stirring occasionally until tender. Add pancetta and stir occasionally until golden

2. Add Madeira and simmer until reduced by half, add crushed tomato, bring to the simmer, season to taste, add pork shoulder, cover and braise in oven, turning once, until very tender (3 hours). Remove pork and coarsely shred, set aside

3. Process cooking liquid in a food processor to a puree, transfer to a saucepan over medium heat and simmer until reduced to a thick sauce. Stir in pork, olives, butter and marjoram, season to taste

4. Cook rigatoni in a large saucepan of boiling salted H2O until al dente, drain, toss through pork mixture and serve hot with extra marjoram and grated parmesan. Et voila!

Bean salad

Ingredientsss

2 small Spanish onions, skin on

300g green beans, top and tailed

300g yellow beans, top and tailed

375g cooked cannellini beans (tinned will do)

3 Roma tomatoes, quartered, seeds removed, cut into thin strips

1 punnet baby basil, or 20 basil leaves finely chopped

Dressing

1 tbspn Dijon mustard

75g creme fraiche

90ml extra virgin olive oil

2 tbspn Chardonnay vinegar

Method

1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees C. Wrap onions in foil and bake for 15-20 mins or until knife pierces through easily. Take out from oven, unwrap and set aside to cool

2. Bring 1L of salted H2O to the boil. Add green + yellow beans and cook for 4 mins or until "just still crisp" (a bit of an awkward turn of words but okay). Drain and refresh in icy cold H2O. Drain again and place in a large bowl

3. Add cannellini beans, tomato and basil. Peel skin off onions, cut into eighths and add to beans. Season to taste

4. For the dressing, whisk mustard and creme fraiche before adding olive oil + vinegar. Season to taste

5. Pour dressing (like, a lot) over the bean mixture and serve

Happy days :) :) :)

Toodles!

VEG (almost)

Gee whiz, doesn't time fly... Sunday was Xmas day and soon I'll be hitting my mid 20s! Nothing like a quarter-life crisis to throw into the mix. I've been a busy little bee recently and will only tease you with une salade.


Zucchini and Green Bean Salad with Tahini dressing

I'm partial to a nice macro shot, and this veggie creation

Serves 4

Ingredientsss

Salad

2 tbspn olive oil

3 medium zucchinis (400g) sliced thinly into rounds

Juice 1/2 lemon

1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

125g french beans

4 handfuls of salad leaves

12-18 oven dried tomatoes (chuck in halved tomatoes in oven at 100 deg C with some sugar, thyme sprigs, bay leaves, olive oil and some S & P for as long as you can muster). Alternatively, use semi-dried tomatoes

Handful of shredded mint (optional)

3 chicken thigh fillets (optional, for the carnivore in each of us)

Dressing

1/2 garlic clove, crushed with coarse salt

2 tbspn light tahini (sesame seed paste)

Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

Juice 1/2 orange

1/2 tbspn honey

2 tbspn olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

• Pan fry sliced chicken thighs in olive oil and salt and pepper. Note: add the oil etc to the chicken before putting in the pan. Once cooked, set aside
• Heat 2 tbspn olive oil in a large pan over high heat and cook the zucchini slices in batches, until tender and browned on both sides. Transfer to a bowl once cooked and season with S & P, lemon juice and chilli. Toss together well
• Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Tip in French beans, return to boil and blanch beans quickly (but depending if you like them crunchy or soggy and limp, lol)
• Drain beans and rinse in cold water  to stop coooking and refresh. Drain and pat dry, add to zucchini
• For the dressing: put the crushed garlic into a small bowl with the tahini, lemon zest and juice, orange juice, honey and some black pepper. Stir well. If the dressing is thick and grainy, thin with 1 tbspn of water at a time. Stir in olive oil and season to taste
• Assembly: spread salad leaves in the serving dish, scatter over zucchini and beans, tomatoes and shredded mint. Top with chicken pieces and dress generously. Et voila!

It's a little 'rustic' but I'm not complaining. This photo was taken literally about 5 secs before I launched in. The dressing tastes awesome and the salad itself has the right balance of texture and flavour. Props to Hugh

This plate of deliciousness was conjured by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, of the River Cottage empire (coming in a close second to Jamie's diabolical plan for world domination). Restaurant openings (and closures, for that matter) have been gracing our media all year - Jamie's Italian in Pitt St is no exception. Pity, it's not exceptional, according to grand master Durack [13/20]. 


I first heard about Hugh when I watched an ep of his River Cottage series. It was a rerun from 50 billion years ago but I thought it was rather charming, especially the huge garden that supplies the restaurant fresh fruit/veg/herbs bit. The English countryside is always a winner too. I bought this cookbook, cheap as chips off the interweb and it has served me well. Who knew there are so many ways with the humble bean, or beetroot! Btw, the baby beet tarte tatin looks fan-freakin'-tastic. There are plenty of recipes to whet your appetite for greens, but I usually add a smatter of meat (like pan-fried chicken pieces par example) for something more substantial . There really  aren't any rules so cook what and how you feel like!

When Hughie cut off his luscious locks (see his former glory here), I must admit I was a little shocked and appalled. It was akin to Enrique Iglesias having his face mole lasered off...it's not like we didn't notice! Source Le Delicieux

Another list: What I like about Hugh F-W

His honesty: a bit corny I know. F-W is not a trained chef but has made a profession out of his passion. There is none of the pomp or pretence that comes with your Ferrans, Hestons or Redzepis - many of whom have become too big for their boots.

He doesn't want you to sous vide anything

His food philosophy: he is a big believer in cooking and eating more vegetables (hence, the vegetarian cookbook) but is definitely not veggo (see this installment). Yotam Ottolenghi, a UK chef is on the same page with Plenty (def on my wish list). True, it 'tis the usual, sourcing the freshest in-season ingredients yada yada (rant) but it all rings true.

Hugh F-W's hair, in the early days (pre-2011) - see caption above. It became a sort of trademark for him and signified his hobo-esque image of "the farmer who could cook". Well nevermind, now he just looks like your average joe in a cabbage suit...

Dapper as anything. If ever you are in some sort of culinary crisis or in need of some comic relief. ..this is your man. Source The Guardian

Happy silly season! Peace out.