ACME

Saturday, 15 August 2015



Reviving this shabby corner of Rushcutters Bay, ACME makes a statement below the rooms of Bayswater Boutique Lodge. Credit: Luchetti Krelle
For months and months, ACME has literally been a dangling carrot. I walk past a lot, and every time it seems to be pumping with a crowd that is the envy of Sydney. Opening late last year, Mitch Orr and co. (Andy Emerson, Cam Fairbairn and Ed Loveday) have combined powers and initials to create ACME. Before you start having  pleasant flashbacks to Looney Tunes cartoons (and Roadrunner dropping anvils off precipices), ACME is all about business. The business of having a good time.


Distressed walls and hanging pendant lights are the handiwork of design firm Luchetti Krelle Credit: Luchetti Krelle
Head chef Mitch Orr has been around the traps of Sydney establishing his rep in a number of Italian restaurants including 121BC and Buzo.  Branching out on his own, Orr's menu is a collision of Asian and Italian flavours which may go on to raise a few eyebrows. But why the hell not? Fortune favours the brave. The results on the plate triumphantly raise a flag for CARBS. The menu is very laden with pasta, that's all been made in house (is there any other way?). Coeliacs, you have been warned. This is freestyle cooking with a heady soundtrack of rap (the language might frighten the oldies :P).

Baloney sandwich (left) and pencil leeks, seaweed butter (right). The perfect bar snack, the sliders are chock full of mortadella and a zingy tomato sauce. The bun was so light, you almost forget what you've just consumed. The charry leeks are quite difficult to eat, unless you ram the whole lot in your mouth. The nori butter is umami heaven, I tell you!
The restaurant itself is a very polished outfit of distressed concrete walls and dark timber floors. The interiors are the work of  Luchetti Krelle who are also behind the design of Momofuku Seiobo and The Butler. The rather compact space maximises dining potential, and even has a more private banquet table downstairs for all your "occasion" needs. And can I just make a comment on those awesome indigo/denim napkins? They pretty much rock my world and wouldn't be out of place worn as bandanas (no kidding). On a slightly more serious note, the service was great and pretty seamless. I did notice there is a 10% surcharge for groups over 6, which seems a bit counter intuitive let alone steep. Despite this, it's all pretty irresistibly cool at ACME; and would sit perfectly in the skinny jeans pocket of your bearded hipster man-friend. Now to the eats...


Fried parsnip, jalapeño cream. Definitely an early highlight, you can fry just about anything and put smiles on faces. These parsnips crusted and golden whilst still being tender inside, all you need is the tiniest dab of jalepeño cream (only mildly spicy) and you're cooking

Fusilli, broccoli, salsa verde. This dish was a little ho hum but will please the veggos. Freshly made fusilli with a green sauce and a sprinkle of quinoa for texture. Can I just emphasize that THIS is how you cook pasta. All nicely al dente, you want to keep it bitey!

Linguine, black garlic, burnt chilli (left) and spaghetti, calamari, Korean bolognaise (right). That black garlic sauce has a nice hum of salt and chilli and is pretty pared back, no nonsense cooking. The Korean style creamy spaghetti was very light on calamari which was a shame, because it was actually very tasty. The chilli in the sauce was a win

Macaroni, pigs head, egg yolk. Probably one of the most memorable savoury dishes I've had in a while. Once given a stir through, the egg yolk makes you go weak at the knees. Rich, glossy and entirely delicious. My bits of pork were a tad on the chewy side, almost like floss

Grilled radicchio, farro, capers (left) and shaved Brussel sprouts, walnuts (right). The sides have plenty of credibility and lots of flavour. The bitter radicchio leaves were offset with the crunch from the grains. Shaved baby sprouts - probably the most under appreciated vegetable of all time. And so good, when paired with walnuts like this

Truffle ice cream, candy apples. Probably the most decadent (and expensive) dessert, the candied apples were the perfect accompaniment. The truffle garnish is definitely for wow factor, with the flavour only barely coming through (Nooooo)
The portions may tend to be on the smaller size but that's made up for in the variety of dishes and original ideas. Creativity is abuzz and that really shines through in the food. Perfectly cooked pasta is sexed up with notes of chilli and umami. For every adventurous diner keen on pairings of drinks and food to share, ACME is your place. It's all a pretty sleek operation and you'll be pleased to know that they take reservations so you can make a night of it (or perhaps a Saturday lunch). Orr and his team have pulled off a restaurant with plenty of staying power. Cheers.

Malteser ice cream, candied bacon (left) and coconut rice cream, white chocolate (right). They certainly weren't skimping with these sizeable desserts. The maltese ice cream was a winner from the get go, but the bacon crumb needed to be more crispy - or otherwise a candied rasher would do just fine. The rice cream was raved about around the table, enough said.
Thanks for reading!
xGourmand
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Popolo

Saturday, 21 September 2013



It's a mere hop, skip and a jump away from home, but there are plenty more reasons why I've returned to Popolo for more. Situated smack bang in the Rushcutters Bay Advanx complex this all-hours restaurant will sate your hunger any time of day. Co-owners Flavio Carnevale (wicked surname) and Fabio Dore have made a restaurant for the people (hence its namesake) and boy are they onto something. Originally from Fratelli Paradiso in Potts Point, they may have flown the coop but they didn't get very far!


Day or night, Popolo's is a great all-rounder. Credit: Anthony Reginato

The beauty of this place is that it can be whatever you want - a restaurant chameleon, who would've thought. Brunch, bar or fine diner - Popolo ticks a myriad of boxes without breaking the bank. What with the thick accents of the front staff (I'm sorry but some things were completely LOST on me) and the no nonsense approach to cibo Italiano, you are almost transported to a far-off piazza, which just so happens to be next to the Lexus showroom...No matter. 

Here's what to expect in the food stakes:

PRANZO


Flippin' fregola: toasted pebble shaped pasta with calamari, prawns and mussels, tomato, chilli and orange zest. Generosity with seafood always deserves props.

Luncheon at Popolo: Flaminia pizza (left) and Strozzapreti ('priest-strangler'!) with suckling pig ragu (right). The pizza is topped with tomato, fior di latte, ham and artichokes - the latter being one of my all time favourite pizza ingredients. The crust is a wee-thick and bready for what I'm used to, pizzas can easily be shared. Easily. I needed a pasta identi-kit to figure out what that pasta was. Could not remember for the life of me! Thank you Cook's Thesaurus ;)

CENA

Paccheri pasta with swordfish, eggplant and fresh cherry tomatoes. This was a lovely neutral kind of dish, nothing smacks you in the mouth but all the elements work harmoniously. A very enjoyable main

Galletto: roasted spatchcock (left) and Pesce: market fish (right). Letting the protein do all the talking, all you need is a snippet of fennel, a light purée and a squeeze of a lemon cheek, done skies.

DOLCI

"Homemade" tiramisù, yet another dessert destined to be served in a glass (so that all may gaze in wonder). I was expecting a little more to be honest, more of everything - chocolate, coffee soaked savoiardi...As you can see, they were a bit heavy handed with all that cream (however light as anything). Ratios aside, this thing was very edible

Caprese al Ciocolato (left) and Semifreddo (right). Chocolate & almond cake, creme anglaise, citrus. Hazelnut and vanilla semifreddo, amaretto sauce, berries.

Popolo has had a hard time juggling all that good press of late. Named Time Out Sydney's Best Casual Diner 2013, and awarded one hat/star by both the Good Food Guide 2014 and Gourmet Traveller's Restaurant Guide 2014 - most have cottoned on to this little place. It's a southern Italian gem, let me assure you. Oh and you can make bookings. Thank Christ.

Thanks for reading!
xGourmand
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